Whether you’re a fashionista, cowboy, musician, farmer, housewife or hippie, you probably have several pieces of denim in your wardrobe. It appeals to all ages, lifestyles and cultures. So it’s no wonder that it is the highest produced apparel in the world, and therefore worthy of eco-scrutiny.
Let’s break down some of the elements that go into that perfect pair of jeans. The first and most obvious thing to look at is where the cotton comes from. Because cotton is particularly susceptible to pests and disease, it is the most heavily chemically sprayed crop in the world. This is bad all the way down the linefrom the field workers to the clothing manufacturers to the consumer, and of course, to the environment. So look for jeans made from fair-trade and organic cotton.
Now that you’ve got a garment made with organic fabric, it’s time to look at what dyes are used. Unfortunately it is very difficult to find non-toxic options here. Natural indigo is one alternative. But to liquify it a chemical solvent is required. For those with chemical sensitivities this still might be a better option than conventional dyes. Natural enzyme dyes and lava rock are also being used but they’re expensive. So about 99% of all denim, including organic brands, are still being made with conventional dyes.
Remember when you had to put in the time to break in a brand-new pair of jeans until they were comfy, faded and torn in all the right places? Used to take years. Now, though, they’re available “distressed” straight off the shelves. And guess whatthat doesn’t happen naturally either. They’re sandblasted and chemicals are used to soften, wrinkle and fade. Every shade, wash and finish also requires that much more water and energy to achieve. The eco-friendly option to look for here is jeans faded with nontoxic ozone.
If you really want to go green, avoid brass zippers, buttons and rivets. They are made from copper and zinc, which require harmful extraction and processing methods. There are several eco-jean brands that use recycled scrap metal instead.
Add to all of this the massive water usage in growing the cotton and making the dye, the oil-guzzling farming machinery, and transportation of all the different components throughout the world, and it becomes apparent that a seemingly harmless piece of apparel is quite the oppositeeven if it’s organic.
So think twice before buying yet another pair of jeans. The most eco-friendly option is wearing the ones you’ve got until they just can’t go any further. Then, when it’s time to discard your denim, don’t. Donate them or with some crafty ideas, such as these, they can be recycled and re-purposed. When it’s time to replace what you’ve got, support "green jeans." Despite their unavoidable carbon-footprints, they are still considerably better than conventional denim and will send a message to the industry that there is a market for greener alternatives.
Here are some sources for local and international denim designers covering a wide range of price points:
PHOTO: Alys Jean at Howies
