Anyone who’s lived in Milwaukee for many years will find themselves on Memory Lane while reading Classic Restaurants of Milwaukee. Written up are dozens of memorable restaurants, many long since closed, including the city’s first Middle Eastern eatery, Abu’s Jerusalem of the Gold; Toy’s, once the watchword for Chinese; Sally’s Steakhouse, a swanky joint straight from “The Sopranos”; and a folly called the Public Natatorium, complete with a pool inhabited by unhappy dolphins. Billock also includes many long-running places that have endured, including Saz’s, Speed Queen and Old Town. I strained but couldn’t spot any glaring omissions from this entertaining entry on the local history shelf.
