Lauren Kirsch
A quick Googling of “Vietnamese restaurant Milwaukee” results in some 20 hits, reflecting a substantial growth in our city’s Asian population. Indeed, long gone (thank goodness!) are the days when egg foo young seemed exotic and chop suey was thought of as somehow authentically Chinese.
A Vietnamese friend and I recently visited one of our many options, Phở Việt on Milwaukee’s far South Side. The first thing that strikes you is its interior—a quite modest, functional space without all sorts of pseudo-cultural kitsch that mar the décor of many an ethnic restaurant.
By all means start with an appetizer, from which there are 20 to choose. We opted for a Vietnamese standby, Gá»i cuốn (spring rolls), consisting of large fresh shrimp, sliced pork, lettuce, bean sprouts, mint and vermicelli noodles wrapped in nice, sticky, moist rice paper. A delicious dip of soybean sauce and crushed peanuts comes with and shouldn’t be ignored. You get three large wraps—plenty for two—for $6.75. Well worth it. Our other appetizer was má»±c chiên dòn —fried, salted squid with garlic and jalapeño ($8.75); delicious and crunchy.
Service was almost too quick as we’d barely dove into the appetizers when our three entrées arrived, filling our table with great food but allowing some of it to cool before it should have. Nevertheless, no complaints about cost, quality or quantity. We didn’t opt for Vietnam’s staple, phở , of which the restaurant, true to its name, offers some 19 different versions. Rather, we went for a different soup, Bún bò Huế ($11.50), a mild noodle variety with both beef and pork in a broth that’s by turns sweet, salty and sour. Add heat to taste via fresh tabletop chili pepper sauce or, less adventurously, the ubiquitous Sriracha Hot Sauce. A true element of exotica adorns this bowl: a chunk of congealed pig blood with the texture of tofu but a decidedly different taste.
My first choice for a main course was a personal favorite, bánh xèo ($9.50)—a large, scrumptious, crispy crêpe flavored with turmeric and stuffed with shrimp, sliced pork and bean sprouts. A veritable garden of leaf lettuce, mint and basil comes alongside. Before indulging, add some of this lovely, fresh greenery and douse the folded crêpe with the light vinaigrette you get with it; despite all the wetness it retains, it’s crispy goodness throughout. These crêpes trace their roots in Vietnam to its long period as the French colony Indochina; wonderful how the Vietnamese people took simple flour-and-water pancakes and truly made them their own.
We also opted for the large combo platter, co’m sÆ°á»n nÆ°á»›ng đặc biệt ($12.50), where you find a host of meats on a bed of sticky white rice: two char-broiled shrimp, two differently spiced pork sausages and large slabs of thinly sliced, grilled pork. Assorted vegetables and that nice, sweet vinaigrette come on the side.
As for beverages, there are the usual soft drinks, of course, but why be boring at this point? Opt for one of the Vietnamese teas or coffees, iced tamarind or a deliciously refreshing smoothie ($4), of which there are 14 different flavors, including avocado, mango, coconut with taro, jackfruit…alas, my favorite—the pungently flavorful durian—wasn’t on offer.
All in all, if you’re looking for a clean, unpretentious atmosphere; reasonable prices; friendly service; and a host of Vietnamese food options, Phở Việt is a good choice. After a good meal, why not step one door down to Pacific Produce—a full-size Asian grocery store with all sorts of vegetables, fruit, canned goods, drinks, frozen foods, fresh and frozen seafood, and snacks that you won’t find at your neighborhood grocer.
Phở Việt Restaurant
5475 S. 27th St.
414-282-8852
$$
Handicap accessible: No
