Photo by Lauren Kirsch
Amilinda’s Spanish-Portuguese-inspired menu is drawn from tradition and the travels of chef-co-owner Greg León. León is one the most approachable restaurateurs in the biz, as is co-owner Orry DeYoung. Everything from tiles, exposed Cream City brick walls, paintings or the fabulous, brightly colored rooster sitting on the chef’s counter (aka bar) has a story that the owners are willing to share, drawing you in like a good book.
However, this story doesn’t end with the décor, but carries over to a creative and thoughtful menu. Bravo to León for doing fewer menu items, doing them well and changing them daily (menu prices fluctuate based on market prices). León works with local farmers, taking what is in season and creating an abbreviated menu that doesn’t have so many choices it makes your head spin. There are five items in each of the two categories, almost everything is made in house (the bread comes from Rocket Baby, another plus in my book) and although you may see Yukon potatoes on three of the five dishes, each dish has its own inspiration of ingredients.
Asparagus pâté ($8) with squash confit, fresh ricotta and pickled kohlrabi was fresh and bright on the palate and a great way to start the meal. Pork and celery root hash ($10) on sweet corn cakes was a well-balanced dish with a touch of acid from pickled garlic scapes.
Manila clams ($13) with hazelnut romesco and charred Spanish onions was not what I expected, but a pleasant surprise that delivered all the flavors of hazelnut romesco in a light and flavorful broth. The charred onion flavor teased the taste buds, but the vegetable was not visible; this was a well-thought-out dish I would return for.
In the seconds category, beef espetada ($20), a Portuguese beef dish typically skewered on a bay leaf branch, was tender and flavorful beef finished with a light drizzle of bay leaf oil and served with a lovely sauté of escarole and one of the best milho fritto (corn meal fritter seasoned and studded with greens) I have eaten. It was creamy on the inside, seasoned well and cooked perfectly for a crispy exterior.
I had trouble deciding between the monkfish with caramelized fennel and blood sausage vinaigrette or the rabbit three ways ($24), but being a sucker for anything done three ways I went with the rabbit. The legs were done in two preparations of fried and braised and the third offering was a sausage that was a little mealy in texture, although it had great flavor. One of my favorite dishes, braised pork cheeks ($21) with cranberry beans and greens with a hint of Moroccan curry oil was pork and beans gone wild. The nicely charred pork cheeks were braised well. It was a hearty dish.
Amilinda offers two desserts ($8), the perfect amount to accompany the menu. The crema catalana with an essence of orange blossom is lighter and looser in consistency than a crème brûlée, but you can smell the same torching of the sugar from behind the chef’s counter before it hits the table—indisputably the reason you order this dessert. León has been working on the second dessert, olive oil chocolate mousse on top of an almond meringue, since the ’80s and in my mind has perfected it. The dark chocolate mousse was velvety and rich, nestled in almond meringue. This dessert had it all—sweet, silky, crunchy, bitter. And although you would think it lighter in calories using olive oil, he adorns the dessert with sweetened heavy cream and candied almonds. I enjoyed it so much that I took another to go for a friend.
Amilinda is a great place to make friends, meet friends and enjoy a fantastic meal that changes daily, keeping you wanting more.
Amilinda 315 E. Wisconsin Ave. 414-369-3683 $$ amilinda.com Handicap access: Yes
