Family recipes are fun to share—and even more satisfying when the family includes generations of good cooks. Witness Genevieve Davis’ Fanni’s Viennese Kitchen. The Milwaukee author fills out the book with stories of her Austrian immigrant family, especially Grandma Fanni, replete with details that will jog memories for Milwaukeeans age 50 and up. Buying an etching at Schuster’s? Yes, that was one of Milwaukee’s big department stores at a time when art galleries were few in our city.
The heart of Fanni’s Viennese Kitchen, however, is the recipes. If anyone wonders how the cuisine of German-speaking Austria differs from Germany the answer is: There are overlaps as well as differences. Vienna was once the capital of a multiethnic empire that extended into eastern and southern Europe. Hence, entrées such as goulash and the use of “Italian” dressing made from balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil in the same cookbook as red cabbage and potato salad with crumbled bacon. Wienerschnitzel? It’s German for Viennese cutlet. Davis adds, “If you can’t find humanely raised veal,” you can use chicken, turkey or beef.
Fanni’s Viennese Kitchen includes many vegetarian dishes and, while gluten-free wasn’t in her grandmother’s vocabulary, Davis writes that almond meal can substitute for bread crumbs and potato or tapioca flour works just fine.
Davis will discuss her recipes 6 p.m., April 19 at the Whitefish Bay Public Library.
