In the approach and evaluation of saké, the beverage’s many unique characteristics should be considered. Saké is not classified by rice type the way grape varietal defines a wine category. Rather it is first categorized by milling or polishing rates and then further classified by its ingredients. Knowing what defines the various grades—and what the terms mean—can be helpful in identifying what you might like.
The principal ingredients of saké are rice, yeast and natural spring water. The finest saké is made from only the central part of the rice grain, with the husk and outer layers removed. The process used to achieve this is known as polishing. Premium saké incorporates rice that has been polished down 50-70% and brewed at low temperatures for a long period of time, using only regional spring water unique to each brewery’s locale and giving each of Japan’s 1,500 breweries’ saké a distinct and original flavor. The higher the polishing ratio the more delicate and refined the saké. Take this into consideration when selecting a saké to pair with food.
Brewers will add a hint of distilled alcohol to some types of saké to bring out different flavors and aromas. A Junmai saké results when they don’t. Meaning “pure rice” in Japanese, it is brewed using only rice, water, koji and yeast and no other additives. Junmai offers more of everything: more acidity, more tang, more body. Junmai also has more amino acids than most other alcoholic beverages, which not only gives Junmai distinctive richness in flavor and body but has the most versatility for serving temperatures. This designation further requires the rice used be polished a minimum of 30%.
Ginjo saké is made with rice polished to the extent that the outer 40% of each grain has been ground away. Extra care is taken not to crack the rice grains during polishing, producing saké that is layered, complex, lighter and more fragrant.
Daiginjo is a sub-classification of Ginjo, in which at least 50% of each grain of rice has been polished and handled with even more care and attention. Daiginjo saké are lighter in body and more fragrant and fruitier than Ginjo saké.
Temperature may have the most profound effect on a saké flavor profile. There is saké whose qualities are most enjoyable at warmer temperatures, but most premium saké is best served slightly chilled. Until a few decades ago, almost all saké was served warm. Although this may be perceived by some to be the traditional way to serve, we must keep in mind that saké long ago was much rougher and less refined, fragrant and complex than saké available today. In many cases, such subtle flavors and aromas would be destroyed if heated.
The choice of glass or cup will in many ways affect how a saké tastes as well. The shape of the cup or glass, its diameter and the thickness of the rim all physically determine how a saké will hit your palate and in what way it will be distributed across your tongue. Traditionally and still common today, saké is drunk from small ceramic cups called ochoko. Larger cups never came into common use mainly due to the deeply ingrained custom of people pouring saké for each other (not to mention the rich tradition of pottery in Japanese culture). This is seen as a sign of friendship and respect, and can be done more frequently when small cups are used. Wine glasses also work very well for saké, especially for more fragrant Ginjo and Daiginjo types. As always, Kanpai!
