Photo credit: Ari LeVaux
Tom Kha Gai
Every inch of the cilantro plant is edible, but the seeds (aka coriander) and leaves get most of the attention. At the farmers market the other day I spotted a bunch of cilantro with the roots still attached. I brought a bunch of those intact plants home and ate the leaves in tacos that very night. Cilantro roots are mellower than the leaves and seeds, but still have that unmistakable penetrating cilantro flavor. The next day, based on a tip from the cilantro root vendor, I prepared a pot of Thai stock.
Cilantro parts, including seeds, leaves and roots, abound in Thai cuisine. The strong cilantro flavor is often balanced with equally assertive ingredients, which together make the cilantro’s flavor less glaring.
But not everyone is on board. Many find cilantro to taste soapy or worse—sometimes with a toxic flavor that’s been likened to the juice of unexpected bugs in your salad. Julia Child famously boasted of plucking cilantro leaves from her food and unceremoniously tossing them on the floor. A minority of cilantro-haters are truly genetically averse to it, reacting to the aldehyde molecules that give the plant its unique flavor.
But most cilantro haters simply haven’t had the proper introduction necessary to acquire a taste for it. A trip to Thailand would probably cure that, but a pot of this magical Thai stock is a more accessible alternative, providing you can get the ingredients. My local store has all of them except cilantro root, and any farmer or gardener with cilantro in the ground has loads of that.
Like any stock, Thai stock can be the gateway to many dishes. It’s only a few ingredients shy of tom yum, the iconic Thai sour soup that is often served with prawns. It’s also the base of the legendary chicken coconut soup called tom kha gai. In the recipes below, I’ll explain how to make a Thai stock, and how to use it to make tom yum and tom kha gai.
The next time you look at a bunch of cilantro, you will look longingly at the spot where the roots should be. If you plant a crop of cilantro now, you will have roots in a month, and can eat some leaves while you wait.
Thai Stock
This stock contains many classic Thai ingredients, and can be used in an endless array of sauces, marinades—even as a poaching liquid. And it’s the backbone of many classic Thai soups.
- 1 tablespoon palm oil
- 2 cups minced shallot or strong onion
- 3-6 cloves of garlic
- 4 lemongrass stalks, each cut into thirds and pounded to release flavor
- 4 quarter-inch slices of peeled galangal root
- 4 quarter-inch slices of peeled turmeric root
- 4 lime leaves
- crushed red chile, to taste
- 10 slices of ginger; smash each slice
- 10-20 cilantro roots, with about an inch of stem attached
- 4 quarts water
Heat the oil and fry the onions on medium until they are translucent: about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, lime leaves, ginger and cilantro roots. Add two cups of water and turn the heat to high. Cook for ten minutes with the lid on. Add the rest of the water and bring to a near boil and turn the heat to low-medium. Simmer for an hour, covered. Turn off and let cool to room temperature. Strain, and store in the fridge for up to a week. Then freeze.
Tom Yum
Most restaurants in the U.S. serve tom yum with seafood like shrimp, fish or mussels. You can also add pork, or even (gasp) go protein-free.
- 4 quarts Thai stock
- 1 pound tomatoes, large ones cut into quarters
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce
- Juice of one lime
- 2 stalks lemongrass, cut into thirds
- Choice of protein
- Optional: veggies like pea
- Cilantro or red pepper for garnish
Heat the stock on medium. Add the tomatoes, fish sauce, lemongrass and lime. Check seasonings and adjust with more lime and fish sauce to taste. It should be plenty sour. Add the proteins and extra veggies and cook until done. Garnish and serve.
Tom Kha Gai
This is typically made with boiled chicken—tom kha gai literally means boiled chicken with galangal root—but I have to say a rotisserie chicken does a nice job too. It doesn’t have the same chewy texture but it’s quick and delicious. It’s built on a base of plain tom yum without any extra protein (other than the chicken we are about to add).
- 4 quarts tom yum
- 8 ounces of mushrooms, cut in half
- 6 slices of galangal root, about 1/8th inch thick
- 1 pound cooked chicken, cut into bite sized chunks
- Other veggies like peas, if desired
- Lime juice and fish sauce for seasoning
Heat the tom yum on medium. Add the chicken, galangal, mushrooms and coconut milk. Bring to a simmer and keep it there for 30 minutes. Season with lime juice and fish sauce to taste. Serve garnished with cilantro leaves.
To read more Flash in the Pan recipes, click here.
