Beer gardens have popped up all over the city in recent years. The large, communal spaces are popular meet-up spots for anything from bachelor parties to family reunions. They have a welcoming and boisterous atmosphere—and the beer doesn’t hurt, either.
The problem with beer gardens, though, is that the “garden” in that equation is usually literal: Most of Milwaukee’s beer gardens are either completely or mostly outdoors. And while that’s ideal in summer and fall, what happens in winter, or when the weather just isn’t cooperative? That’s where indoor beer gardens like Bavarian Bierhaus come into play.
Located in the old Bavarian Inn complex in Glendale, the Bavarian Bierhaus has two beer hall buildings, patios, outdoor beer garden, green spaces and adjoining soccer fields. The main building, which houses the main beer hall, brewing facilities and dining room, dates from 1968 and was renovated when Bavarian Bierhaus moved in in 2016. Original chandeliers and the wood ceiling were kept, paying homage to the history of the space. The brewing facilities, located behind the bar, can produce eight different beers at once, and a mural of Munich stretches along one long wall. A huge multi-TV screen hangs on the wall above a stage where live polka is often played.
The food menu is as expansive as the space, at least compared to other beer gardens that don’t go much beyond snacks and sausages. German dishes, ranging from traditional to maybe-slightly-German-influenced make up the menu. A basket of soft pretzels and beer cheese dip ($11) and a Bavarian meat and cheese board ($12) are popular apps for sharing. Bierhaus wings ($10) are available in buffalo, barbecue, a nicely balanced honey sriracha sauce, or Barenjager, which our server described as a German teriyaki.
The Bierhaus schnitzel ($17) is one of the more traditional and popular entrées. The portion size is hefty: My plate contained two wide, thin pieces of breaded pork, and sides of butter spätzle and fried cabbage. A topping is included in the price; choices include ham and beer cheese sauce, an apple craisin compote and, my choice, a creamy mushroom gravy. The pork was fork tender with breadcrumbs that were crisp and clung to the meat. A lemon wedge for sprinkling on the pork was appreciated.
Also on the traditional side of things are sauerbraten ($19) marinated in red wine and served with red apple kraut, and knusprige schweinshaxe ($20), a massive crispy roasted pork shank served with potato dumplings. Bratwursts come on a pretzel bun with sauerkraut ($10) or in a wurstplate ($19) assortment along with bierwurst, knackwurst, chicken bratwurst and sides.
On the not-terribly-German side are baby back ribs ($15-$20), blackened salmon ($19) and chicken fingers ($12). The burgermeister’s meisterburger ($13) tops a hefty grilled beef patty with shaved ham, shredded roast pork, bacon, onion straws and beer cheese sauce. The patty was cooked to the requested medium and full of backyard grill flavor. Fries that came with the burger were thick cut and well seasoned.
Other sandwiches include the Bierhaus take on a bologna sandwich: laberkase ($9), a pork and beef sausage loaf that comes sliced and topped with a fried egg and American cheese on grilled sourdough. Crunchy schnitzel is available on a pretzel bun too ($11), where I bet the fried egg addition ($2) would be very welcome.
Because of the cavernous space of the main hall, it can get extremely loud at peak times, but that’s really part of the fun of a beer hall. With its communal tables, hefty glass liters of beer and lively entertainment, this is a place where people come to connect and make friends, even if it’s just for a few hours.
