If you love a good steak, Carnevor Steakhouse Moderne ranks with the best steak in the city of Milwaukee. It all starts with the great quality of beef from Allen Brothers Prime Steaks as well as SURG Restaurant Group’s Hidden Creek Farm. But Carnevor’s mission to serve the finest meat in the city doesn’t stop at beef, they also serve mangalitsa pork, known for being exceptionally juicy, tender and marbled.
Walking into Carnevor you immediately realize you are not at your typical Wisconsin supper club, but get the feeling you stepped into the hottest new restaurant in any big city. The fairly new renovations and enlarged space is stunning and a hot spot for their amazing craft cocktails or outstanding wine selection. Carnevor has an award-winning wine list with a selection of more than 400 bottles and 25 offerings by the glass. The very accommodating guest service was as exceptional as the wine list.
An impressive way to start the evening is with their “shared for the table” seafood platters which are offered both hot ($105) with lobster tail, shrimp scampi, calamari and crab cake or as the cold seafood “fix” which comes in two sizes, small ($51) and large ($91) and is a feast for four to six people. They have a wide variety of other starters including a not-so-traditional shrimp cocktail served with king crab ($16), mangalitsa pork belly ravioli with local pea tendrils and smoked onion pork jus ($13) and roasted bone marrow with crostini, pickled shallots and whole-grain mustard aioli ($18), along with a variety of salads and soups. All these starters are a generous portion for sharing or perfect for a eating while enjoying a drink at the bar.
I found all of the condiments perfectly matched to bring out the delicate balance of the seafood and the lobster bisque ($12) with butter-poached Maine lobster was wildly rich with a luxurious mouth feel.
When it comes to beef most people have pretty strong opinions about what they like and Carnevor has set the bar high for giving the people what they want. Not only do you have a variety of cuts to choose from, but you can decide on size, bone in, center cut, wet aged and how many days dry aged. For something really special, they have “reserve cuts,” which include a domestic 8-ounce Wagyu filet ($76), a Japanese “A-5” (highest grade and quality of Waygu beef) 6-ounce filet ($161) and a 14-ounce 45-day dry aged New York Strip ($53) that was cooked perfectly, had great marbling and that distinctive characteristic that comes with dry aging meat that sets it apart.
If the beef isn’t enough for you—why not top it with one of the many sauces or additions like foie gras ($17), truffle butter ($4) or a fried organic egg ($3) to name a few. Don’t forget about one of the many steakhouse sides ($8-$19), also large enough for sharing, which include truffled mashed, risotto and the popular Carnevor Steak Fries with garlic aioli that added to an already special dish.
Hard to imagine you would have room for dessert, but the hot little donuts served with chocolate ganache, a jam and a vanilla anglaise are perfect endings to a memorable dining experience.
Carnevor Steakhouse Moderne
718 N. Milwaukee St.
414-233-2200
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Handicapped access: Yes
CC, FB, GF
KEY
Prices of average entrée with soup or salad: $—$10 or less; $$—$11-$20; $$$—$21-$30; $$$$—$31-plus • Credit Cards Accepted: CC • Reservations Accepted: RS • Outdoor Dining: OD • Sunday Brunch: SB • Friday Fish Fry: FF • Full Bar: FB • Valet Parking: V • Late Night: LT • Lunch Buffet: LB • Gluten-Free Menu: GF • No Alcohol Served: NA •