Whether you choose a plant-based diet for ethical, health-related or environmental reasons, options abound throughout Milwaukee for delicious vegan-vegetarian fare. According to WalletHub’s report published on Monday, Sept. 30, titled “Most Vegetarian & Vegan-Friendly Cities,” Milwaukee ranked among the top 20. One of the reasons Milwaukee made the grade could be Celesta—brainchild of vegan chef and caterer Melanie Manuel.
Celesta’s inviting, intimate space has seating for seven at the bar, a group-seating area and a few tables for two. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak dining times. Daily specials are posted on a decorative chalkboard above the bar. The seasonal menu currently features all the comfort foods we crave during blustery winter months: mac and cheese, made with plant-based cheese sauce ($8); lasagna, featuring almond ricotta and rosemary seitan (a hearty mock meat made with wheat gluten) sausage ($14); and sandwiches. There’s also lighter fare like salads, available in half or full portions ($6-12).
We started with the mac and cheese, located under the “Sharables” section of the menu. (It also comes as a side with the Southern Plate—along with seitan drummies, garlicky green beans and baked beans.) The generous serving of creamy, mildly nutty flavored mac and cheese, topped with browned Panko (bread) crumbs, easily served two. We had to stop ourselves and push the spoon aside so we wouldn’t get too full for the main entrées.
Moving on to the mains, my omnivore husband immediately chose the Chicago Italian “beef” sandwich ($12). He was impressed by the French roll loaded with well-seasoned, simmered soy curls, topped with slices of jalapeño and green peppers, onions and giardiniera—a tangy Italian vegetable relish. Side choices included kale caesar salad or the soup of the day. That day’s offering was Mexican quinoa, a robust, chili-like concoction featuring black beans, quinoa, tomato chunks, corn tortilla strips and diced avocado.
I tried the buffalo seitan “chicken” sandwich ($14)—a thick, crispy-coated seitan patty slathered with spicy buffalo sauce, served on a bun with lettuce, pickles, onion and veganaise, which nicely complemented the mild heat. I tried the kale caesar salad on the side, which is also available as a stand-alone dish. This kale salad went above and beyond other such salads I’ve tried, with creative additions of golden raisins, cukes and carrots, along with the standard tomatoes, onions and croutons. It could have used just a bit more of that tasty dressing, but after the meal, I noticed that you could order extra sides and sauces.
We were too full to try desserts like the salted chocolate tart, but we’ll be sure to save room next time. The beverage menu has unique choices like Blue Sky soda, Abu’s Rosewater Lemonade or Brew City Booch kombucha for non-drinkers; house cocktails like the East Side Old Fashioned or The Throwback, both featuring Wisconsin ingredients; local beers and cider; and a wine list with reds, whites, rosé and champagne. Celesta offers a Sunday brunch that features seitan chicken and waffles, bay biscuits and gravy, tofu benedict and other hearty choices, as well as lighter brunch fare.
Considering how laborious it can be to make plant-based seitan or cheese from scratch (I’ve tried achieving both in my home kitchen, with mixed results), the prices are very reasonable. Celesta will easily please vegans and vegetarians and will also woo omnivores looking to expand their palates.
