After almost three decades in operation at the corner of Brady and Holton streets, Giovanni’s closed many years ago, much to the dismay of frequent patrons. Thus, news of its return was greeted with great delight. Thankfully, I discovered that this isn’t one of those situations where someone bought the name and that is the only link to a storied past. Rather, it’s still run by the same family—Giovanni Safina and his sons Sal, David and Joe.
The new Giovanni’s is still the fine-dining experience it once was for those on the hunt for top-notch Italian-Sicilian cuisine. It’s also a terrific blend of the traditional and the modern. Gone, alas, is Giovanni’s colorful maître d’, Max, and the old menu with an entire page of veal dishes. But, the lovely décor—once a hallmark—is still that, and four of those famous veal entrées are still available. True to the family’s Sicilian roots, however, the menu now fairly overflows with food from the sea. For example, they offer a fish of the day (available at market price) which comes atop a delicious bed of large, charred portabella mushrooms, grilled broccolini, mascarpone and caper cream carnaroli.
On the Saturday my partner and I visited Giovanni’s the fish of the day was his choice: Chilean sea bass with a perfectly grilled and seasoned crust and flaky, pearly white, melt-in-your-mouth interior of luscious fish. I ordered the Rosa Combination ($42.95), one of the house specialties. This consisted of a stuffed filet, large scamponi shrimp and an Alfredo sauce-imbued tagliatelle with tender chunks of king crab. We started with a calamari fritte appetizer ($12.95)—a large plateful of lightly battered, fried squid seasoned with Trapanese sea salt and served with both sweet and sour and warmed marinara sauces—perfect for two. Throughout dinner, we sipped glasses of one of Giovanni’s extensive wine offerings; this particular red boasting sweet strawberry notes.
The menu is arranged according to Italian dining traditions. The top portion offers antipasti—lovely appetizers such as baked mozzarella ($10.95) and homemade fennel sausage ($11.95). There are also four salads and a zuppa del giorno. After this, it’s on to the first course—lighter dishes such as wild mushrooms (bucatini, $18.95) and cannelloni with veal ($19.95). The more substantial second course offerings include seafood and chicken dishes as well as center-cut filet mignon ($37.95). Finally, the Specialita Della Casa ushers in those four veal dishes: cotoletta, piccata, scaloppini marsala and that great Italian standard, veal parmesan (all $32.95). Pork, beef and seafood items round out the remaining options.
Giovanni’s—ensconced in the space once occupied by Tutto Sports Bar—clearly shows those origins (there yet remains a full bar and big-screen TVs). Its intimate, two-floor dining area makes this a very comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy some amazing food. This is not an Italian restaurant where you devour a huge plate of so-so spaghetti and meatballs and call it a day. This is a place to savor a real Italian dining experience in all its flavorful glory.
Giovanni’s
1033 N. Old World Third St.
414-291-5600
$$$$
FB, RS, GF
Handicapped access: Yes
