Hidden gem? More like diamond in the rough. Thai Bangkok has been on food-loving Milwaukeeans’ radar for a while now, and is often described as a hidden gem. But the interior of the Northwest Side restaurant can only be described as not fancy, while the Thai and Hmong food the kitchen puts out shines like a diamond.
The ramshackle storefront next to liquor and cell phone stores might scare some people away, but once you look past any insecurities, you’ll find that the restaurant staff makes you feel right at home. Opt for a table in the narrow room of booths where there’s better light from large windows, and you won’t be breezed past by countless non-customers walking through to use the restroom (there is a sign against this, but...). Folding chairs at the tables near the busy takeout window have seen better days.
Once you’re settled, you’ll likely be greeted by one of the many family members who own and operate the restaurant. My server was knowledgeable enough about the menu to answer my questions and make suggestions, and made me feel at home. It was clear that other diners felt the same way, as most seemed to be regulars and enjoyed some playful banter with the server.
If you dine in, you’ll get a little surprise before your meal: shrimp chips. These airy, crispy and neon-colored snacks have a mild seafood flavor and are great for scooping up saucy curries, whether it’s traditional or not.
The menu is mostly Thai cuisine, and has long, helpful descriptions of each dish so you know exactly what you’re getting. Each dish is numbered, and you’re instructed to order by number so there’s no confusion. At the end of the menu is a small section of Hmong dishes, plus there's an additional Hmong menu available if you ask for it.
Number 52, also known as Ntses Tuav Kua Txob or spicy crushed fish ($9.25) is a Hmong dish that’s so packed with bold flavors it almost takes your breath away. Savory fish sauce coats the fried and flaked catfish in a salad-like blend of fresh herbs, lemongrass and scallion. Order it—or anything here—“extra hot” or “on fire” and you’ll be feeling it for a while. It’s pungent, strong, and you’ll need the plain white rice it’s served with to temper it.
Peanut curry (number 23, $8.25-$10.25), is one of their most popular Thai dishes on the menu, according to my server. It blends a typical Thai red curry with peanut sauce, resulting in a thick, creamy and nutty sauce that bathes green bell peppers, green beans, water chestnuts and your choice of protein. It’s filling and more satisfying than many restaurants’ red curries.
Listed under the “Specialties” section of the menu is fried rice with noodles (number 48, $8.25-$10.25). If you’ve ever had trouble deciding between fried rice or a stir fried noodle dish, this one’s for you. Thin rice noodles are blended with white rice and stir fried with egg, onion, scallion, tomatoes and beansprouts. It’s a little unwieldy to eat, but the deep, rich soy glaze makes it worth it.
Pad Thai (number 33, $8.25-$10.25) is available but it’s a bit flat, so choose the Drunken Noodles (Pad Kee Mao, number 34, $8.25-$10.25) with wide rice noodles in a deep brown sauce instead. Or just head back to the Hmong menu for a whole fried tilapia (number 54, $12.25) covered in stir fried tomato wedges, basil, lemongrass and onion, or Hmong sausage (number 51, $8.25) made with pork, scallion, garlic and ginger and served with white or sticky rice.
The Brown Deer location had so much takeout business that a sister location, Thai Bangkok Express, opened recently at 9201 W. Capitol Drive. The menu there is the same, though many customers choose to order from the steam table of prepared sides and stir fries for speed and convenience. That space, while sparse, is a little more inviting than the original, though that shouldn’t stop anyone from eating in to experience the friendly service, unique Hmong dishes and reliable Thai cuisine.
