You probably expect a restaurant in a mall to be dull, chain-like and uninspired. And most of the time, you’d be correct. But one example stands out head and shoulders above any other mall restaurant in the area: Explorium Brewpub.
Located in Southridge Mall, Explorium may seem vaguely familiar to you, but that’s only because of its sleek, comprehensive branding that’s as good as any chain. The logo, the merchandise and décor have all clearly been carefully thought out and executed. But that’s where any similarities to chain restaurants end.
Unlike mall chains, the one thing that stands out most at Explorium is quality. Across the board, everything from service to garnishes on the plates was top notch. Staff is trained well (it helps that the owner, Mike Doble, is a constant presence and role model, taking photos to post on social media and chatting with customers), and the chef obviously takes pride in the food that comes out of the kitchen. Even the tomato slices that garnished a burger—you know, the ones you automatically set aside because they’re always white styrofoam—were fully ripe, a small but noticeable indication that nothing mediocre would leave this kitchen.
That burger, called the Bomb Burger ($14), is a burger patty baked inside a crust as opposed to being served on a bun. Two kinds of cheeses, bacon and sweet onions caramelized in Explorium’s Livingston Porter join the half-pound beef patty. Amazingly, the burger was still a perfect medium temperature as requested, even after a spin in the oven to cook the dough, which was flaky, light and more like a pie crust than a burger bun. It was served with a side of fries that resembled those you get in most diners: fat, fluffy and highly seasoned.
Great things are happening with ground beef in the appetizers, too. Battered meatloaf ($12) is admittedly not something I would normally order, but it was too unusual sounding to pass up. My adventurousness was rewarded with thick slabs of loaf, wrapped in bacon and stuffed with cheese, coated in a wispy, crisp buttermilk batter without a hint of fryer grease. Plan to share with a few other people, because this is a heavy appetizer, but it’s so worth it. This dish could easily win the Sporkies at State Fair.
On the lighter side of the app menu are cheese curds, though this squeaky cheese ($4) isn’t fried. Instead, the fresh curds are marinated in hop-infused oil, along with herbs and lemon. A curator board ($15) of cheeses, charcuterie, fruits, nuts and baguette is a great pairing with many of their beers.
Pizzas and calzones are cooked in the domed pizza oven just off the bar area—you can even watch it bake from your bar seat. Choose from a number of specialty topping combos or make your own on the beer sourdough crust. The Brewer’s Choice ($14) pizza is loaded with crumbled sausage, sandwich-size slices of pepperoni, shaved ham, mushrooms, pickled red onions and poblano peppers. The red sauce is a bit sweet, but it’s balanced by all that spicy meat. One pizza can easily feed two people.
Mussels ($15) make for a Belgian-style menu addition and are available in three different preps: Brussels with roasted garlic, veggies and butter in their own golden ale; red curry with coconut milk and cashews; and Provençal with tomatoes, wine and herbs. All come with baguette for sopping up the sauce.
Salads, sandwiches, entrées and desserts round out the menu and run the gamut from a salmon genovese salad ($16) with pesto and fresh mozzarella to a steak and vegetable pie ($14) made with Three Saints Imperial Stout and topped with cheddar mashed potatoes.
And lest you’ve forgotten after reading the menu full of beer that this is a brewery, you can choose from the long list of brews made onsite. The Cherry Vanilla barrel-aged quad is quite tart and packs a high ABV punch. Creme Brulee cream ale has a quick burst of cream and vanilla up front, and the Carver’s Peanut Butter stout is smooth and nutty.
Despite the tasty brews, the one thing I’ll always order here is a bloody mary. The homemade mix is light and balanced, made with a touch of porter for depth. But no matter which drinks you order, they’ll always go great on the huge patio, including a full outdoor bar, fire pit and televisions. That patio, along with the unique, well-executed pub food, attention to detail shown by the staff, and inviting atmosphere will all make you forget that you’re in a suburban mall.
