Photo by Nick Smith
A little storefront-turned-restaurant, Centro Café glows on Center Street in Riverwest, a beacon of Italian food made with locally produced ingredients. You will feel immediate warmth as soon as you walk into the cozy space, thanks to the occasional flare-up in the kitchen and the mirrors reflecting the orange glow. Instead of being tucked away out of sight, your food is cooked behind the bar in the main dining room, only feet from the front door and dining tables. It lends an air of interaction between the kitchen and the diners, just like you’d experience in someone’s home.
As you’d expect, the menu’s focus is pasta. Dishes range from traditional walnut basil pesto ($11) to arrabiata with Scardina chorizo and shrimp in a spicy tequila-lime sauce ($18). You can’t go wrong with classic pomodoro ($9), a light sauce made from fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and olive oil over capellini; or the arancia with chicken, olives, capers, artichokes, tangy orange-tomato sauce and cavatapi ($16.50). In general, the pastas tend to be heavily sauced, but they’re so tasty you’ll be thankful for something to sop up with your garlic bread ($5), made with bread from local bakery Sciortino’s.
Gnudi ($16), ricotta dumplings similar to gnocchi, are homemade and not too heavy. A creamy seafood risotto ($21) with peas and tomatoes is also delightful.
The menu also includes a long list of starters and salads. A number of variations on crostini, toasted sliced bread often served with a topping or dip, are offered: crostini with tapenade ($8), crostini with baked spinach and artichoke dip ($12), and crostini with baked goat cheese and candied tomato jam ($10).
Ten-inch pizzas can be ordered as shared appetizers or as a meal for one, and unusually, are all made with gluten-free crust. Besides the traditional Margherita ($11) with fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce, a pizza with Maple Leaf Farms duck sausage ($15), fontina, roasted garlic alfredo, mushrooms and truffle oiled-arugula is offered. It’s an indulgent take on pizza that is perfect to share with your partner on date night in this romantic restaurant.
Centro Café
808 E. Center St.
414-455-3751
$$$
Handicap access: No
