Photo by Rachel Buth
There’s plenty on the menu at Buckley’s to talk about so let’s get straight to it. I started my meal with truffle fried artichokes ($8). A deceivingly simple preparation, it includes no batter or breading, just artichoke heart quarters deep-fried to a featherweight crispness in many shades of golden brown. They’re served piled high with shredded parmesan, chives and just the right amount of lemon-truffle oil to enhance and balance flavors—not to overpower. I was delighted something fried could taste so light. I would definitely order them again—I imagine them making an outstanding burger topper.
Banh Mi ($10), a Vietnamese-style sandwich of shaved barbecue pork, is vibrantly colorful and equally spicy. It’s topped generously with picked carrots, daikon and cilantro for a fresh crunch against the tender pork and soft Italian roll. I opted for the side salad (instead of fries), which was a good call. The lemon vinaigrette provided a subtle sweetness to help alleviate some of the heat delivered by the chili sambal sauce and jalapeño. A slightly sweet cocktail could be an ideal accompaniment.
A lobster roll, to me, is like French onion soup: I cannot not order it. Buckley’s version ($16) is a mostly traditional preparation, with large pieces of shellfish folded in a tarragon aioli and stuffed in a buttery split-top bun. When garnished with scallion and a few squeezes of lemon it is rich and refreshing; you can’t go wrong.
The oyster Caesar with grilled romaine ($14) revived my appreciation for the Caesar salad. Romaine wedges are grilled, creating a smoky depth of flavor. After tossing with an oyster Caesar dressing, it’s topped with pancetta, Parmesan crisps, garlic croutons and fried plump oysters. It was one of the best Caesar renditions I’ve had in a while.
Service is professional, friendly and attentive, even from staff not assigned to my table. The one disappointment was being too full for dessert; the carrot cake (historically a personal favorite) was described by our server as “The best ever.” House-made daily—by the meal’s end l was convinced just about everything at Buckley’s is—it is prepared with pineapple instead of the traditional raisins and smothered in buttercream frosting. I may just begin my next meal there with it.
Overall, I describe the menu as American comfort food with many global influences. The selections were familiar but intriguing with many creative spins and unassuming ingredients. Buckley’s opened in 2007 and is family owned and operated by the Buckley family: Mike and Pam, and sons Britt and Taylor. Their East Town neighborhood location at Cass and Wells streets has seen commercial and residential growth and as a result, Buckley’s is planning a sizable expansion. The completed work is said to triple their current dining capacity.
Buckley’s opens for lunch six days a week and stays open through dinner service. It’s great to know there’s a solid option out there for a late lunch. They are also open for Sunday brunch, for which I will be returning soon.
Buckley’s Restaurant & Bar
801 N. Cass St.
414-277-1111
$$-$$$
Handicapped Accessible: No
