Photo credit: Melissa Johnston
Shahrazad's Shirazi Salad
Shahrazad’s namesake was the legendary Persian woman who staved off death at the hands of a brutal monarch. She saved herself through the power of storytelling. Every night, goes the legend, Shahrazad entranced the king with a story that arrived at a cliffhanging moment at the break of dawn. He spared her life for another night in order to hear how the tale ended—and then, the next night, she began another story…
Photo credit: Melissa Johnston
Mohammad Khatibi, owner of Shahrazad
The East Side restaurant called Shahrazad began in 1993 under Palestinian owners. In 2006, one of the legendary storyteller’s countrymen, Mohammad Khatibi, took ownership. Khatibi arrived here in 1984 to attend UW-Milwaukee and later became a manager at Roundy’s. “I wanted to offer something useful and appreciative for the community,” he says when asked why he purchased Shahrazad.
An affable, unassuming entrepreneur, Khatibi enjoyed getting to know his customers as he expanded Shahrazad’s already popular Arab menu with dishes from his homeland. Chicago has long enjoyed several Persian restaurants, but in Wisconsin, Shahrazad is unique for its half Arab-half Persian menu. He explains the primary distinction between the two cuisines: “We’re into mild seasoning,” he says. “The way we marinade and season our food is much different.”
Shahrazad’s Halal menu includes all major food groups except pork. Options include beef, chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetables. Red meat was traditionally a special occasion feast food through much of the Near East, and as a result, Khatibi has a wealth of Persian and Arabic vegetarian and vegan recipes to draw from. Many dishes are gluten free. A good starter is Shahrazad’s signature lentil soup made from yellow lentils with a few diced carrots and a dash of black pepper. The distinctly Persian appetizer, kashkeh-e-bademjan, is a smooth, mellow sautéed eggplant spread made with garlic and whey. It goes well with the basket of oven-warmed pita bread brough to the table. Entrées are generously portioned. The grilled meat on the lamb kabob is tender and flavorfully spiced, served with rice and grilled tomatoes. Especially refreshing on a warm day is Shahrazad’s rosewater lemonade.
Photo credit: Melissa Johnston
Shahrazad's Shakshooka
Carrying on Through COVID
When businesses closed during the shelter-at-home months, Shahrazad carried on with carry-outs, curbside service and deliveries. Now, the dining room has reopened with physical distancing in place. The restaurant is bright and airy with two levels for dining, an elevated area alongside the windows overlooking busy Oakland Avenue and the lower area decorated with tall statuesque hookahs and hung with pictures of the restaurant’s namesake. But the steam tables that once held Shahrazad’s popular lunch buffet stand empty and the narrow sidewalk affords no room for outdoor seating.
Even in the best times, owning a restaurant isn’t easy. “It’s what I like to do, no matter how hard it is,” Khatibi says. “The money was there,” he continues, “until COVID came into the picture.” Business continues but at slower pace than before due to “fear of COVID,” he adds.
“I’m not a chain-guy with multiple locations. This is the only bread-making place for me and it’s been slow. The landlords don’t give you an inch,” he continues, echoing the complaint of many small businesses under the thumbs of property owners with no vision beyond their monthly rent checks. “You own your place, but actually you don’t own it! The landlords own you!”
Shahrazad is an asset, a place of community, as well as a locally owned restaurant with a superb and—for Milwaukee—unique menu. It’s open Tuesdays through Sundays. Most entrées are under $18.
To read more Let's Eat! articles, click here.
To read more articles by David Luhrssen, click here.
