At The Little Cook (2674 N. 51st St.), partners with restaurant management and food prep experience at George Webb and a few bars throughout the city have been making a go of their own eatery since last June with African American soul food flair.
Yams, greens and mac ’n’ cheese are among the sides, and entrées run the gamut of Midwestern heartiness. Try the fried catfish with wide, fleshy filets coming out piping hot with shoestring French fries on the side and complimentary fountain soda. A basic cheeseburger from Little Cook, though unlisted in its weight, feels like a third-pound patty and is slathered with a slice of cheese and Thousand Island dressing.
Little Cook also offers reasonably priced homemade pies and cakes and fulsome breakfasts. As for the latter, the $5 all-you-can-eat pancake special may appeal to eaters looking for a morning carb load, but the grits skillet is likeliest to bring me back for some a.m. fuel. The Little Cook’s Valentine’s Day special is chocolate roses served in a flower-trimmed margarita glass ($15).