It’s almost like the African Diaspora in reverse now at Club Timbuktu (520 E. Center St.) as the men behind the Jamaican Grill & Kitchen food truck have taken over the kitchen most days at a venue that long specialized in cuisine from Africa.
Several entrées are available in belly-filling, eye-catching presentations of proteins and sides.
A recent visit’s sampling of curried chicken and goat reveals a variety of heat in the spices between dishes. An angled cut of fried plantain acts as a slightly sweet starch alongside thick, short grains of white rice with red beans and a cabbage salad that’s like the halfway point between coleslaw (similarly cut and including carrot slivers) and sauerkraut (warm, but not fermented).
It’s good to see uniquely spiced, hearty Jamaican fare spread to Riverwest.