Jamerican Jerk Center (6015 N. Teutonia Ave.), the city’s newest home of this Caribbean cuisine, does plenty to set itself apart. Not only does Bob Marley’s music course through the speakers at the homey strip mall eatery, so does the rock ska that preceded Marley’s stardom, as does the electronic dance hall style that followed him.
The tunes complement the dining. Jerk chicken and pork betrays an undercurrent of sweetness. The traditional combo of saltfish and ackee, the latter a relative of the lychee, complement each other with saltiness. The rice with fried plantain slices and strips of steamed cabbage make it all the more enticing and authentic.
Another native combination plate, tripe and beans, appears to be unique to Jamerican Jerk Center. The desserts find common ground with African American cooking, including sweet potato pudding and coconut drops that recall macaroons.
