The mural emblazoning the front of El Rincon Criollo (“The Creole Corner,” 1408 W. Windlake Ave.), depicting a Puerto Rican fortress flying Commonwealth and U.S. flags amid native flora and fauna, is among the most vivid of any in the city. Its interior isn’t nearly so festive, but the plainness is no detriment to the hearty Puerto Rican fare proffered in this takeout-only eatery.
As good a place to start on the menu is the pork dinner. A whopping portion of juicy pork shoulder takes up at least a quarter of the Styrofoam box in which orders arrive from behind the counter. Two huge fried chips of mashed plantain rest atop a range of yellow rice liberally dotted with pigeon peas and bits of smoky pork. Dabs of pork also enhance a cup of beans and potatoes. The beverage menu is small, but includes several sodas and juices (sometimes of Caribbean origin).
