Just when every possible format for a restaurant seems to have been invented, another one appears. This time it is called “American pirate fusion,” and the restaurant employing it goes by the name of Shiver Me Timbers. The restaurant and bar fill a large room decorated with 1950s touches and painted in deep hues of blue and purple. The tables and chairs are natural wood with black lacquer, and the décor is an eclectic mix of brica-braceverything from pewter teapots to the occasional pirate-themed item. Imagine having dinner at a resale shop.
The restaurant is the vision of owners Valerie Keiller and her partner, who goes by the name of Dante. Dante's menu is filled with creativity, including recipes pirated from Louisiana and the Caribbean. The prices are geared to this South Side location: All entrees are priced in the teens and there are sandwich- es that cost even less. While the menu is quite descriptive in terms of ingredients, consider this to be merely a general guideline. And do not be in a hurry, as service comes at a slow, leisurely pace. The complimentary amuse-bouche showcases the kitchen's spirit. I sampled chocolate cornbread, which offers a few sweet streaks of chocolate, nuts and powdered sugar. Sweet flavors will be found in many of the menu's items.
The crab cake surprise ($7.95) deserves the name. Is there any crabmeat? No, but there's certainly minced smoked salmon, bacon, pistachios, leek and Gruyere cheese, creating an interesting contrast of flavors and texture. And, yes, there is the addition of sweet mango marmalade.
What can this style of cooking possibly be called? “Pirate fusion,” of course.
A duck and dumplings soup was unavailable when I visited, which left sausage soup ($3.50) as the only alternative. The low price made the large bowl that arrived quite unexpected. The soup combines a few varieties of chopped sausage with bell pepper, tomato, onion and celery. The dark broth is very salty and needs to be lightened up.
The seafood is a wise choice among the entrees, although the Angus filet with mushrooms, shrimp and multiple sauces ($15.95) is excellent. Down-home catfish ($11.95) includes two filets served over rice in a sweet concoction called crawfish buttermilk chive cream. Where are the crawfish? It really doesn't matter. This is a delicious dish with a hint of Louisiana spice. Pecan-encrusted red snapper ($16.95) comes in a generous serving. The menu describes the cooking process as sweet-blackening, which means more sweet than spicy and not really blackened at all. Even more nuts appear with a Creole-influenced béarnaise sauce.
A curious item is a curry ($14.95) with a trio of meatspork, lamb and goat. The menu promises a curry of fresh thyme, allspice, cilantro and chile in the manner of a Jamaican curry, and it's quite good, if a bit sweet. The allspice announces its presence and the chile is at a low level. A promised garnish of nuts (stop already!), raisins and coconut never appeared. It is of no import, though, as enough is happening in this dish already. The sweet touch does work admirably in an entrée simply titled chicken & shrimp ($16.95). The sweetness comes from a peach brandy béarnaise sauce. The boneless pieces of chicken (mostly dark meat) and shrimp are enhanced with minced andouille, pecans and celery. The promised water chestnuts are absent, but again not really missed. This is another fine example of pirate fusion.
Shiver Me Timbers has enough good moments to make it worth a visit. At the very least, you can expect to be surprised. The bar is pleasant with a minimal wine list supplemented by a selection of 17 domestic and imported beers.
SHIVER ME TIMBERS
4177 S. Howell Ave. (414) 769-7777 $$ Credit Cards: MC, VS Smoking: At bar Handicap Access: Yes
Photos by Jessica Kaminski
