Hotel Metro is located in a vintage 1930s building in Milwaukee's Downtown, and the Art Deco décor remains true to the original structure. To get to the hotel's restaurant, Metro Bar & Café, enter through the main lobby and head toward the hostess waiting at the bar area.
The bar and dining room feature warm wood tones, and most of the tables have small sofas that add to the intimate dining experience. When Justin Johnson became head chef earlier this year, he revamped the menu. He has created some fine options, from the small plates to the desserts. The menu follows current trends, with locally sourced ingredients, sustainable seafood and humanely raised meats.
One thing that has not changed is the delivery of those delightful cheese breadsticks to each table. Bucking the trend of oversized portions, the focus at Metro Bar & Café is on quality ingredients and presentation. An example is the wild rice and sherry soup ($4-$7), which has plenty of pulled chicken breast and a garnish of fresh chervil. The broth is a rich sherry reduction with wild rice. The serving is not large, but it is quite good.
The deconstructed Caesar ($10) offers a novel presentation. The lettuce is described as romaine steak, with the romaine sliced about 2 inches thick, and it is topped with Caesar dressing and a poached egg. Shavings of cheese are of roth käse grand cru gruyere from Monroe, Wis. It has a distinctive aged flavor that is well suited for this salad. The dressing also is on the mark.
Whereas the Caesar is intended to be a starter course, the duck breast salad ($16) is more substantial. Tea-smoked slices of breast meat add marvelous Chinese flavors. The meat is served over impeccably fresh organic watercress. Underneath you will find a navel orange, honey puree and shavings of fennel. The results are exceptional—a wonderful combination of ingredients and flavors.
The Lake Superior whitefish ($16) makes for an excellent entrée. This dish features a piece of filet served with the skin on and topped with a finely chopped, creamy slaw of brussels sprouts. It is served over wilted watercress with minced pancetta. A pair of potato and hominy cakes comes on the side. It is a thoughtful entrée that works very well.
Other entrees include flat iron steak, coq au vin, veal chop, pork chop and breast of pheasant. The priciest item is the grass-fed beef tenderloin ($35), a perfectly good steak that includes sautéed asparagus, porcini mushroom risotto, and mustard bordelaise sauce.
You don't have to be a hotel guest to enjoy a great meal here. If you stop in, be sure to try the duck breast salad and the whitefish.
The Metro Café is a very decent restaurant in a fine location. The setting remains an urbane delight and the service is always very good.
Metro Bar and Café
411 E. Mason St.
(414) 225-3270
$$$-$$$$
Credit Cards: All Major
Handicap Accessible
