Avli Brings Greece to Brewers Hill

by

Eat/Drink

Pair “Greek” with “restaurant” in Milwaukee and many leap to an assumption: “family restaurant” with big portions, bottomless cups of (American) coffee and an accent of the Mediterranean in the form of feta and spinach omelets.

But Greek restaurant can also mean chef-prepared cuisine. Milwaukee has had a few of those Greek restaurants over the years—Kosta’s White Manor, Dionysus and now, Avli, open since last year in Brewers Hill with a commanding view of Downtown.

Avli is the Milwaukee outpost of the Chicago micro-chain by that name. The entirely unique, multi-roomed and multi-terraced space was formerly occupied by Roots and Wolf Peach. Avli has a full bar offering all the usual libations plus signature cocktails featuring Greek bitters and spirits (“A Greek in Wisconsin” is an old fashion made with Metaxa brandy) and a wine list focused on Greek vineyards. Sit back in the main dining room, sip a beverage and drink in the setting. White, airy and open to the sun, furnished with woven-backed patio chairs and lanterns hanging from the high ceiling—you can easily imagine that you’re dining in a contemporary restaurant in Athens or Rhodes.

A good way to explore the starters is with the sampler of three spreads. At a recent meal, we chose tirokafteri, a spicy dish made from roasted red peppers, feta and yogurt; hummus, dressed up with paprika and bits of tomato; and tzatziki, with a creamy yogurt and cucumber base. The platter of toasted pita bread was drizzled with olive oil and dusted with herbs. Pita bread usually isn’t usually a “Wow!” moment, but it was the first of many at Avli.

For heavier appetizers, turn to the section labeled Meze, a word in many languages meaning small plate dishes. Included are spanakopita (spinach pie), calamari and prawns, but the saganaki is a must and unlike any other. The flame-cooked cheese is honied and served sizzling on an iron pan and topped with fig chutney. Among other choices for starters are avgolemono (egg-lemon soup with rice) and a pair of attractively served salads.

The entree menu is short but covers several food groups with fried cod (a beer-battered nod to Milwaukee but with a Greek accent), pork, beef and chicken dishes. The lamb chops are tender and to order, cooked with baked sundried tomatoes, oregano, thyme, basil and an unusual pesto. The eggplant-based moussaka is unlike any version in the area, served in a big bowl and oven browned—it looks like French onion soup—but is composed of mashed potato and ground beef ragout flavored with bechamel and cheese. All entrees are a la cart, but don’t ignore the sides. The Greek fries are large and covered in grated tomatoes, rosemary, sea salt and a hint of cheese—great for dipping in tzatziki.

Service is friendly, attentive but unobtrusive. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options are clearly marked. 

Avli