Photo via DanDan - dandanmke.com
Dan Van Rite and Dan Jacobs at DanDan
Dan Van Rite (left) and Dan Jacobs at DanDan
Chef Dan Jacobs has always believed in leaving this world in a better place than he found it. Jacobs, who co-owns restaurants DanDan and EsterEv with chef Dan Van Rite, is using his popularity from his recent success on “Top Chef: Wisconsin” and as a James Beard Award finalist to raise awareness about the impact of climate change on restaurants and farmers.
Jacobs, along with approximately 600 chefs and farmers nationwide, is a signatory of the James Beard Foundation’s letter to Congress addressing climate change, and he’s part of the Climate Solutions for Restaurant Survival campaign. This month Jacobs will join a coalition of chefs and farmers traveling to Washington, D.C. to advocate for climate-smart agriculture to be included in the Farm Bill, which is up for renewal this year.
The Farm Bill is a long piece of legislation, with many stakeholders advocating for their own agendas. The Farm Bill expired on September 30, 2023. A continuing resolution was passed in November 2023 to extend current Farm Bill programs through September 30, 2024.
“We’re looking to make sure that funding for conservation programs goes toward climate-smart agriculture,” explains Jacobs. Climate smart agriculture is a climate-based approach toward agricultural management that includes limited or no tilling, minimal soil disruption, cover crops, composting and crop rotation. “It’s things that farmers have been doing forever.”
Jacobs says he has established solid relationships with U.S. Senator Tammy Baldwin’s office and with U.S. Congresswoman Gwen Moore’s office. He plans to speak with them, as well as “anyone else who will talk to me. I will try to talk to as many reps as I can.”
Climate Change Disrupts Delicate Ecosystem of the Restaurant Industry
Climate change has led to unpredictable weather and extreme conditions such as droughts or heavy rains, which is more frequently affecting the availability and quality of ingredients. This year’s harvest times for spring and early summer crops such as rhubarb, peas and strawberries were weeks off from what they have traditionally been, making it difficult for restauranteurs specializing in seasonal menus to plan and obtain ingredients.
“Everything is different than it used to be, and these downpours just destroy the crops and fields. We basically had to pull lamb off the menu because the farm from where we source lamb, near Beloit, experienced flooding in their grass pastures,” he says.
Jacobs also had to remove a popular stir fry dish from the DanDan menu because he could no longer find a viable source for one of the key ingredients, pea tendrils (also referred to as pea shoots). “When we did find them, they were around $80 for a 10-pound case. Once you stir fry those, they shrink down, so you need a lot of them. I’d have to charge $30 for a side dish!”
As prices rise on locally raised meats and produce, those costs must reluctantly be passed on to consumers. “It’s a razor-thin profit margin for restaurants, and we’re in the center of a delicate ecosystem,” he says. “Our two restaurants employ about 60 people. We buy direct from farmers, and I spend more than $200 per week at the West Allis Farmers Market. We value our community and we’re also a powerful economic force. We’re places where people gather and celebrate, and we want to make food we’re proud of. To do that, we must take care of the people that take care of us.”
For Jacobs and other chefs, that equates to securing dedicated funding to preserve existing climate and soil health initiatives to help farmers mitigate climate change, increase yields and sustainably produce greens for restaurants. This, Jacobs says, will support local and sustainable farming, and help farmers become more resilient and thrive.
Jacobs encourages restaurateurs and consumers to support local farmers by shopping at the many great farmers markets throughout the Milwaukee area. Support restaurants that buy directly from farmers and promote the farm-to-table ethos. Contact your representatives in Congress and encourage them to support climate smart agriculture.
“It’s our job as their bosses to tell them what we want. If you don’t say anything, nothing gets done,” Jacobs reiterates. “Unmitigated climate change threats every level of the restaurant industry.”
Want to make your voice heard in support of climate-smart agriculture? Contact U.S. Senator Tammy Baldwin at: baldwin.senate.gov/contact, and U.S. Senator Ron Johnson at ronjohnson.senate.gov/email-the-senator.
Contact your U.S. House Representative through house.gov/representatives/find-your-representative.
