Chefs Moving Cautiously on Reopening Their Dining Rooms

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Local chefs and restaurateurs are taking thoughtful steps as they navigate the challenge of re-opening their dining rooms in the new reality of the COVID-19 era. While many hoped that the worst had passed, case numbers continue to climb making decisions difficult. The chefs and restaurateurs I’ve talked to have decidedly mixed feelings on getting back to business. Many are weighing the health concerns of their employees versus the need to make a living. It’s not an easy choice. Chef Adam Pawlak of Egg & Flour Pasta Bar at the Crossroads Collective on Milwaukee’s East Side says, “It’s very difficult to be a restaurant owner right now.” He should know, his Bay View restaurant was set to open right when the shutdown hit back in March.

Karen Bell of Bavette La Boucherie in the Third Ward is taking a slower approach about opening up indoor seating saying, “We would really like to focus on outdoor dining for the immediate future.” AJ Dixon at Lazy Susan in Bay View said she, too, is committed to “take out or small patio outdoor-only dining for as long as I financially can.” Andy Schneider of Le Reve in Wauwatosa opened up indoor dining and added a food truck but has since backtracked on the truck to focus just on the restaurant. He, like Bell and Dixon, has been doing carryout meals to stay afloat. Schneider says he’ll continue selling the family meals packs even though he’s reopened his dining room because he’s “found a diversified concept in the menu options” that appeals to a larger clientele with “different comfort levels.”

Whether restaurants can open at 50, 75 or even 100% capacity, the reality is that social distancing ultimately dictates how many you can seat in your dining room or outdoor space. Joe Singer at Uncle Wolfie’s Breakfast Tavern in Brewers Hill says that “given the size of the space and our inside seating capacity of 40 (60 to include the patio) the numbers don’t balance out.” Dane Baldwin at The Diplomat on Brady Street echoed similar concerns. Those with outdoor seating have been able to serve more customers with the city helping out by issuing permits for restaurants to offer expanded outdoor seating.

Conscious About Safety

Chefs, in general, are very conscientious about food safety and the added layer of protection now needed has made them even more vigilant. Requiring employees to wear masks appears to be a standard and some are adding protective barriers, too. They all have stated their desire that customers wear masks but don’t think it’s an enforceable option. All are providing hand sanitizer, and most are requesting guests to not walk around unless using the restrooms. As the pandemic wears on, businesses may be forced to be even more cautious because one COVID positive test, like Steny’s in Walker’s Point recently, will require you to shut down for deep cleaning.

Caitlin Cullen at The Tandem restaurant in Lindsay Heights decided to pivot her restaurant to something different by providing free meals to those in need, with the help of funding from José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen charity. She’s also been able to spread out the production to other chefs and restaurants, including Bavette, Lazy Susan and Sanford, to help keep them going during this time. Cullen is taking a measured approach to reopening and hopes to do so by late summer. But the way of operating her business is going to change, saying that the hospitality business is “not taking care of their people. Wages are not family sustaining; insurance benefits are lousy and the work is physically demanding," adding, “We need to treat our workers better.” She’s been a force and a refuge in the community and talks about her staff like family.

Most restaurants, regardless of whether they continue to offer carryout service or not, have had to lay off lots of employees. Dixon says she’s only had to lay off three out of a staff of 10, but larger restaurateurs like Bartolotta’s, in shutting down all of their venues, had to lay off 950 employees. Some have seen this as a way to reorganize and streamline their operations. Menus have been simplified as well as service.

Lost Revenue

Cost cutting has also come from rent breaks. Jason Alston at Heaven’s Table BBQ at the Crossroads Collective says that getting a break on rent has helped to soften the blow of lost revenue. Dixon says that her landlord gave a break on rent as well, and their meat supplier, Gahn Meat Co. has been working with them on cost. And Pawlak says he’s getting a break on the rent at his Bay View location till it opens.

The pandemic fallout has made closures inevitable in a business with thin profit margins. Blue’s Egg in Shorewood was one of the first. At the Mequon Public Market, Beans & Barley and Bavette decided to close their second restaurants to focus on their flagship operations. Other restaurants include Crawdaddy’s in West Allis and Crazy Water in Walker’s Point. Joe Parajecki, Pritzlaff Wholesale Meats sales rep and president of the local chapter of the American Culinary Federation, says that caterers in particular are “struggling the most and we are going to lose a lot of them.” This is just the first chapter in the new normal of the food-service business. There will be progress and pullback depending on how the virus travels. As Parajecki says, “The ones thinking on their feet are really killing it.”

John Reiss is a culinary arts instructor at Milwaukee Area Technical College and has taught many of Milwaukee area’s top chefs.

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