Dane Baldwin, chef-owner of The Diplomat (815 E. Brady St.), recently made Milwaukee proud when he won the prestigious James Beard Foundation award in the Best Chef: Midwest category. Baldwin is the first chef from Milwaukee to win the award since Justin Aprahamain of Sanford won in 2014.
Other Milwaukee finalists included Karen Bell of Bavette and Gregory Leon of Amilinda. Several Milwaukee and Wisconsin-based chefs made the semi-finalists round.
Baldwin had worked in food service since his teens. His first kitchen job was at Gil’s Café. He also worked for SURG Restaurant Group and Bartolotta Restaurants. He was executive chef at Mr. B’s—A Bartolotta Steakhouse, in Brookfield. He mentored students at Bay View High School through ProStart, a nationwide, two-year culinary program brought locally to four Milwaukee Public Schools with the support of late Joe Bartolotta and his wife, Jennifer. Baldwin opened The Diplomat in 2017.
When you first stepped into a professional kitchen, did you ever think you’d be where you are today?
No. When I was a 20-year-old looking for a job, I knew there was an opening at a restaurant within walking distance from where I was living at the time. I thought I’d give it a shot. It took some time before I thought about being a chef or working in the culinary field. By the time I left Gil’s, I was on the path I had chosen but I wasn’t sure if this as a viable option.
I was privy to the book Winning Styles, and Sanford D’Amato (1996 James Beard winner and former owner of Sanford’s) was featured in it. I remember thinking how cool that was. Several James Beard Award winners each had submitted a recipe. That was around the time I was first made aware of the awards and the foundation. At that time, I did not think I would be seen in that light.
What was your reaction upon hearing your name announced as winner of Best Chef in the Midwest Category?
It was fantastic! It was an outpour of emotions. When people say, ‘I’m living the dream,’ that’s what it feels like.
You’re very passionate about what you do. What fuels that passion?
For me, it’s second nature. There are so many things I like about this field, from being an entrepreneur to the continuing education I get as a professional and working together as a team. I love cooking—the physical aspect, the tweaking and the tasing. Like anything, you will get out of it what you put into it.
The Diplomat is an American seasonal restaurant, featuring nostalgic, approachable fare with creative twists. What do you hope your guests take away from their experience at The Diplomat?
We’re a neighborhood restaurant, and I want people to feel comfortable. A lot of that comes from the food and from the service. We want to provide a genuine experience of a night out. Our concept is flexible enough that if you wanted to treat someone to a business dinner, or if you wanted to stroll down the street for dinner, you can do either.
What are some of the current menu items you’re most excited about?
We have a menu that hovers around 20 favorite items and three desserts. We approach our offerings the same way, and we’re proud of what we put on the menu. Our corn grits have gotten a lot of positive feedback and we use those in different ways and in different dishes. The beef short rib comes with grits, kimchi, green garlic and grilled bok choy. It’s a really nice dish with spice and brightness for the summer.
From where do you get your inspiration?
It comes from a lot of different places. We’ve said, ‘what if you did this?’ a bazillion times. I ask lots of questions that spur conversation with my team, my wife and my kids, like ‘what’s your favorite pizza in town?’ and we start talking about food. A few hours later, you’ll have a new dish on the menu.
What is your opinion of Milwaukee’s culinary scene?
I can speak to this on a personal level because my whole career has been here. The culinary scene here is so rich with good intention. It’s very different than it was 20 years ago—and that’s probably the case in any city—but we’re talking about having that extra ingredient of personality behind the food. There are so many great restaurants here and to be part of that is really special. I have the upmost respect for my colleagues. Having an event like this sheds a little light on Milwaukee.