Photo: saladining.com
Sala restaurant dining room
“We have a lot of artists in the family,” Teresa Balistreri Warsh says as she proudly gestures toward the many colorful and intricate paintings that grace the walls of Sala (2613 E. Hampshire Ave.), the cozy Sicilian fine dining restaurant that she and her brother, Tony, opened October 2001.
Among the paintings is a portrait of the sibling’s great-grandmother Lena D’Amico, who inspired Teresa and Tony with her cooking. “Our family was all about cooking and eating together. That was how she connected with people.”
Teresa and Tony had both really enjoyed working in restaurants while in high school, and Anthony always had a culinary knack. They opened Sala da Pranzo (sala da pranzo is Italian for “dining room”) October 2001. They shortened the name to Sala in 2012, around the time they integrated pizza into the menu.
Over the years, Sala has drawn customers including faculty and employees from nearby UW-Milwaukee, as well as regulars from the neighborhood and surrounding areas. Teresa sees young adult customers that came in when they were children with their families. “It’s so cool to be a part of people’s lives,” she beams.
Standout Sicilian Specialties
The vast regions of Italy have distinct cuisines. Teresa explains that in Sicily, you’ll find lots of artichoke hearts, lemons, almonds and pistachios, which all make their way into Sicilian specialties. “Sicily, being a strategically placed island, was conquered by many cultures that have left their contributions to create unique Sicilian cuisine that’s very different from northern Italy,” she says. “You’ll find some of the Middle Eastern spices like cinnamon, or things like oranges.”
Sicily’s warmer climate has ideal growing conditions for plants such as the caper bush, which produces capers used in Sicilian cuisine. With Sicily being an island, you’ll find seafood, especially anchovies, which Teresa says is used subtly to add a unique flavor to dishes.
Sala’s menu has been tinkered with over the years, but most favorites remain. Popular menu items include arrabbiata, a dish with house-made spicy tomato sauce and Italian sausage, served with penne pasta. Da mare is made with sautéed shrimp and scallops, with tomato sauce made with a little bit of cream. “It totally changes the sauce when you add the cream, and goes well with seafood,” Teresa says. Da mare is served over linguine. Featured dishes rotate daily, weekly or monthly, depending on the availability of seasonal ingredients.
Pizza lovers have several options of hand tossed pies to choose from such as the Margarita with fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil; Sicilian Supreme, featuring sausage and prosciutto; and vegetarian standouts like Flag of Italy, with fresh tomato chunks, basil and green olives that really pairs well with the savory sauce and rich cheese.
Having opened shortly after 9/11, Sala has weathered the Great Recession of 2008, along with the current COVID-19 pandemic. Already having a successful carryout model in place before the COVID shutdown, Teresa says it was easier to transition during the shutdown.
“The experience of owning a restaurant for two decades has been a roller coaster,” Teresa says, “You never know what’s going to happen. You have to stay adaptable and be on your toes, ready to change and to work with what’s happening, which is also what makes it a lot of fun.”
Teresa and Tony’s younger brother, Peter, along with Tony’s son, Anthony, help run Sala. “Twenty years is kind of a surreal marker,” Teresa concludes. “We’re so grateful for all the support over the years. That’s what we’re here for, is to feed people and make people happy with food and wine while creating good memories.”
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