We'll start with regional differences. The area inwhich a wine's grapes are grown is known as its terroir. (Pronouncedtare-WAHR) Literally translated as "soil" in French, a wine's terroiraffects a wine's taste dramatically. Even wines grown on adjacent plots of landcan taste very different.
However, we're not splitting flavors that fine. Winesfrom a certain region tend to take on a certain character, and that character isoften food-driven. I've found winemakers create wines to accompany their home'scuisine and lifestyle. If a regional diet includes a lot of earthy-tastingfood, the wines will be earthy tasting. Lighter native cuisines will generallyyield lighter wines.
The best way to learn about a varietal is to tryseveral versions of a grape. With that in mind, here are three markedlydifferent pinots to pour side by side by side:
Tortoise Creek 2007 Pinot Noir – Over the last couple of decades, internationaldemand for French wine has declined. Some blame American animosity in the wakeof 9/11, but there's a simpler explanation: French wines are difficult for abeginner to grasp and as more people began to drink wine, they went forsimplicity.
On most bottles of French wine, the varietal isnowhere to be found. The French name their wines by region: Burgundy,Bordeaux,Sancerre, Chablis, etc. I had a hard time with French wine because I didn'trealize, for example, that most red Burgundyis actually pinot noir.
While there is still an abundance of traditionalFrench wine, some growers committed the heresy of putting the varietal on the label.Tortoise Creek (which sounds like it should be from Australia, no?) is an example of an"Americanized" pinot. This wine greets you with a nose of chocolatecovered cherries. The flavor is extremely light with a little cherry fruitflavor and a somewhat chalky body. The finish is much drier than many pinotnoirs that I've had. Interestingly, this wine reminded me more of Chianti thana French wine. It would be excellent with any roasted or baked fish, or pastain lighter red sauces. $8-10.
Bogle 2007 RussianRiver Pinot Noir – The RussianRiver Valleyin Californiais better known for bold wines like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, but thereare some very decent pinots tucked away. Youl get a wonderful terroir contrasthere. French pinot noirs tend to be extremely light and slightly acidic, while California's tend to reflectthe boldness of those wines, tasting fuller and fruitier.
The Bogle's nose is much stronger. The flavor is richwith a round body of cherries and raspberries. The finish is dry and not asacidic as the French. This was the most drinkable of the wines. It would gowell with chicken, lighter meats, and any kind of red sauce. $12-14.
Cono Sur 2008 Pinot Noir – California, Oregon, and France are best known for pinot, but Chile, one ofthe leaders in value wine, has started to produce it. You'll get the chance tobe the "Cono Sur" at any gathering.
This is the lightest of the three pinots in color butnot flavor. The nose is slightly fruity and has a scent of earth. The flavor isthe most acidic and a bit smoky. The finish is dry and slightly tannic -- unexpectedin a pinot. This wine is supposed to be "new world styled," but ittasted more "Old World"meaning thatthe earthy character stood out. I'd pair it with light gamey foods like duck orlamb. $9-11.
A rose is a rose is a rose, but a pinot ain't a pinotain't a pinot. The variance of varietal among regions, styles, and flavors shouldkeep you fascinated. Next up is sauvignon blancclass dismissed…
