Photo by Rachel Buth
The Louisiana cuisine served at Cajun Big Easy (2500 N. Mayfair Road, Mayfair Mall Food Court) may not be as fashionable as a couple of decades ago, but it’s heartening to see it in a fast-food setting operated by local entrepreneurs. Lightly breaded blackened catfish isn’t darkened with baked-on spices as it might be, but is nonetheless moist and more flavorful than one might usually expect from a mall food court. Healthful side dishes include veggies such as steamed broccoli, pleasantly mushy red beans and boiled potatoes with a hint of basil. Mac ’n’ cheese possesses heartiness more in keeping with soul food scrumptiousness than pre-packaged kiddie blandness. Jambalaya rice in place of its plain white variety is worth the upcharge for the presence of tender carrot and celery slices and its slight spicy flair. Softly sweet cornbread may lack the grit of the starchy staple served at some African American eateries around Milwaukee, but it makes a fine stand-in for dessert, too. Diners who want their Cajun dining in more portable consumable form can grab a wrap.
