Photo Courtesy of Devon
If I hadn’t previously dined at Devon Seafood + Steak in other cities I would probably assume it was just another independent restaurant. It doesn’t have the feel or appearance of a chain.
Daily fish offerings are decided daily—based on daily fresh deliveries and printed on a menu that changes daily. So in that case it’s not operating like a chain restaurant either. Of course, there are plenty of popular menu staples one can count on different occasions—and even at different locations. One of which is the Maine lobster bisque, luxuriously savory with a hint of natural sweetness available in a cup ($7) or a bowl ($9.50). Although very satisfying, I recommend the smaller portion size, assuming there is more food coming.
And there will be.
Mini New England lobster rolls ($11) is a perfect sharable starter if you adore lobster rolls— as I do—but do not want to commit your entire meal to the rich, filling sandwich. It’s a balanced blend of sweet lobster meat folded in a creamy base of mayonnaise and fresh herbs all nestled in a buttery, toasted roll.
Next: Fried Calamari ($12). Now I know what you’re thinking. “What’s more quintessentially ‘chain restaurant’ than fried calamari?” (Answer: Buffalo wings.) But what makes Devon’s version intriguing is the addition of sliced batter-fried carrots and jalapeño peppers combined with the crispy squid. It brings new texture, juiciness and flavor to an otherwise one-dimensional dish. Two contrasting dipping sauces of Creole remoulade and spicy sweet ’n’ sour complete the preparation. Chilled shellfish options such as oysters, lobster claws and shrimp cocktail—as well as seafood-free choices like prosciutto and gorgonzola flatbread, goat cheese bruschetta and three salads round out the starters portion of the menu.
For entrées, jumbo lump crab cakes ($30) seem as close to a signature dish as I can imagine. Prepared Maryland-style (big lumps of fresh crab, minimal filler), it’s gently formed and lightly pan-fried for a subtle crust. The cakes are served alongside grilled asparagus, whipped potatoes and complimented by the enhancement of two sauces—mango tartar and Creole remoulade.
A well-worth-it splurge is the Alaskan king crab legs ($50). Few local places offer these and even fewer served them chilled. Devon traditionally serves theirs steamed/hot, however, upon my request they were happy to make the exception. Weighing in at one and one-quarter pounds, they are served “feast style” with nothing more than fresh lemon and clarified butter. It’s the ultimate menu choice where utmost quality, freshness and purity are spoken through a single ingredient. My only wish is that the kitchen would cut or snip through the crab leg shells before serving. Avoiding the laborious requirement of cracking, poking and digging (especially without the protection of an infamous shellfish bib) would make the experience that much more enjoyable—not to mention, would elevate it to a level comparable to that Devon’s décor, service and wine list.
Devon Seafood + Steak
5715 N. Bayshore Drive, Glendale
414-967-9790
CC, FB, OD, SB, RS
Handicap access: Yes
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