Though it’s only been in business for eight years, O’Lydia’s feels like it’s been around a lot longer than that. It used to be an outpost of Slim McGinn’s, an Irish pub in Brookfield, and long before that, the Cream City brick building was a Pabst tied house. That much history gives the pub a lived-in, homey feel throughout its ramshackle assortment of dining rooms, sun rooms, bars and tucked-away patio.
Recently, the food menu went through some pruning, getting rid of most entrées, including what had been stellar, under-the-radar fried chicken. Besides a long list of appetizers and salads, the menu’s focus is now sandwiches, though most of them are not at all what you'd describe as “light” fare. In fact, some are not really sandwiches at all, like the Shepherd's pie ($10) with shredded beef and peas in Guinness gravy over mashed potatoes. It's served with a piece of garlic bread, so I guess you could pile the rich beef on there and call it a sandwich if you like.
The meatloaf sandwich ($10) is also barely a sandwich, served open-faced on a slice of bread and topped with gravy. If you're in the mood for meatloaf, it's a much better option than the meatloaf sliders ($8 for three), which are too dry without the added gravy. (Hamburger or Irish beef options for the sliders are the better bets.)
Burgers here are all hefty half-pounders and are grilled, not griddled, for a lovely char. There's a few classics to choose from, including a Hangover burger ($12) with cheddar and a fried egg, a California burger ($12) with avocado and pepperjack, and a triple B burger ($12) with bacon, buffalo sauce and blue cheese. A patty melt ($12) is grilled on rye bread with fried onions. On Thursday nights, there's always a rotating burger special ($8.95), or get a simple cheeseburger for $5.95.
There are a few, less-heavy sandwiches, too, like a BLT ($9) and a triple-decker Irish club ($11) with corned beef, turkey, Swiss cheese and bacon. The spinach grilled cheese sandwich ($11) is unique with fresh spinach leaves, brie, cheddar, red onion, tomato and basil on focaccia, as is the grilled eggplant sandwich ($9.50) with mozzarella and marinara. All sandwiches come with a side, including a pile of homemade crunchy potato chips, freshly cut fries or garlic red-skinned mashed potatoes.
Chicken wings ($12 for 10) are popular here, on account of the fact that they're deep fried, then grilled and tossed in sauces that are all homemade. The garlic buffalo sauce is more barbecue-like than buffalo, but the mango habanero is thick with fruit purée and a lingering heat. Wonton wrapped mozzarella sticks and Reuben rolls ($9 for four, $12 for six, $16 for eight) filled with corned beef, kraut and Swiss cheese are huge and homemade.
The Friday fish fry is quite good with a lot of options. Everything is breaded instead of battered, including the cod ($10-$14). Jumbo shrimp ($14) is a standout as the thin, crisp breading is miles away from the frozen version that come pre-coated. Bluegill ($12) and perch ($13) are also available, as is a combo fry ($17), which is a steal for including a little bit of everything.
Brunch is served on both Saturdays and Sundays with an eclectic menu. The breakfast club ($9.50) is “the sandwich that made our brunch spectacular,” according to the menu, and it is pretty tasty with a fried egg, bacon, American cheese, hollandaise sauce and hash browns right on the sloppy sandwich. Chunky corned beef is used in a hash ($9.50) as well as an Irish omelet ($10) or skillet. If a country fried tenderloin steak isn't filling enough for you, it's served with a biscuit and gravy, two eggs and a side. Wash it all down with a Bloody Mary topped with a whole beef stick, cheese curd, pickle, olive, fresh mini sweet pepper and a crunchy pretzel around the straw.
If you're someone who's always on the lookout for a great deal, check out O'Lydia's nightly specials and happy hour. Besides that burger night, there's all-you-care-to-eat tacos, wing specials, prime rib and steak dinners on Saturdays, as well as cheap drinks during happy hour. There's also free shuttle service for Brewers games, festivals and other events that is one of the fastest in town thanks to running multiple buses. It's a bustling place with high energy and lots of people coming and going, and it remains one of the most reliable, consistent pubs in Milwaukee.
