The Third Ward is full of great places to grab a bite and have drinks, so it could be difficult for new restaurants to stand out. But it’s possibly an even bigger challenge for a restaurant to make a name for itself and keep the people coming back, year after year. In the nearly five years since opening, Onesto has not only succeeded in making a name, but they’ve kept it. Popular weekday lunches, nightly dinners and a recently added weekend brunch have served to further reinforce Onesto’s place in Milwaukee’s restaurant scene.
On a recent evening visit, Onesto was bustling. A warm welcome by an attentive server set a positive tone for the meal. It may be very busy at peak times, so reservations are recommended. If possible, request a table by the window (or outside in summer) and enjoy watching some downtown nightlife.
There are several great ways to begin a meal at Onesto. First, keep it simple—the complementary freshly baked bread with infused olive oil is a delight. Or, allow yourself to be tempted by one of the “Jars” ($8), mason jars with tasty, layered spreads, served with fresh bread as well. The Smoked Ricotta, Tomato Jam and Orange Zest jar is a deceptively simple combo, yet worth savoring every bite. Another excellent starter is the Burrata ($12), a soft, creamy cheese presented with tomato confit, pistachio pesto and more of the wonderful fresh bread. There are also a variety of salads available ($5-$11) which looked good.
While it’s possible to make a meal of the appetizers at Onesto, you’d be missing out on some of the best handmade pasta in Milwaukee. Mushroom lovers will be in heaven over the Wild Mushroom Ragu ($12-$17) served over pillowy fresh gnocchi. Not a fungus fan? Try the fantastic Bolognese ($14-$19) made with tender brisket meat, served over spaghetti. If you’re not in a noodly mood, go for the cherry balsamic glazed Braised Short Ribs ($26), which are cooked to perfection and paired with seared polenta. Whatever you choose to order, seriously consider adding a side of the incredible Caramelized Cauliflower ($5).
Onesto offers several options for those who want to have wine, beer or cocktails with dinner. The solid wine list is dominated by Italian and Californian wines, most of which are available by the glass or bottle. Local beers are featured on tap, with more variety in bottles. Cocktail lovers will enjoy Onesto’s creative options, but the homemade Sangria is always a safe bet if you have any trouble deciding.