Photo by Rachel Buth
Though Milwaukee Sail Loft is open year round, the restaurant really comes alive in summer. It’s situated at the southern-most point of the Third Ward, tucked into the bend of the river that comes in under the Hoan Bridge. Appropriately, there’s a large wrap-around deck and pier, allowing boats to pull right up and dock for the afternoon. The restaurant even sells maritime safety gear, like flares and life vests from May through October.
If you guessed the menu is centered around seafood, you’d be correct, but there’s something for everyone, likely to appeal to families and large groups with varied tastes. Instead of appetizers, there’s a large selection of small plates to choose from. Seafood choices here are pretty classic, like mussels ($12) in your choice of three different styles, fried calamari ($10) with lemon basil aioli and Maryland-style crab cakes ($12) with Cajun remoulade. Crowd-pleasing grilled chicken wings ($8) and a roasted garlic hummus platter ($10) with all the usual garnishes are great for sharing.
There are a number of burgers and sandwiches available, some with meat and some without. Smashed meatballs ($12) on a hoagie roll get spiced up with pickled giardiniera, provolone and pesto mayo. Street tacos ($13) are offered two ways: with grilled mahi mahi or blackened shrimp, topped with cabbage, pico de gallo and garlic aioli. Chicken sandwiches, burgers and vegetarian black bean burgers come with toppings that range from blue cheese and shrimp ($12) to barbecue sauce, cheddar, bacon and a fried egg ($12).
It’s the entrées here that really shine. Seafood diablo ($22) is a mix of fresh fish, scallops, mussels and shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce over angel hair pasta; to the restaurant’s credit, there was at least twice the amount of seafood as pasta. Among the entrées, mussels were curiously absent, but large scallops (no tiny bay scallops here) and fish in a few varieties didn’t have me missing them much. Another dish, scallop and fennel pasta ($22), also shone with copious large scallops and a savory, creamy pancetta sauce.
For the landlubbers, there’s Karl’s meatloaf ($14), differentiated from most versions with the addition of red pepper, cumin mashed potatoes and chipotle gravy. A wild mushroom rosemary pork loin ($21) is paired with pancetta Brussels sprouts and herb-roasted red potatoes, charred lightly in the oven. Whether you’ve earned your sea legs or prefer to stay firmly on the ground, there’s something for everyone to enjoy in this casual restaurant, especially on the patio.
Milwaukee Sail Loft
649 E. Erie St.
414-223-0100
$$$
Handicap access: Yes
