The friendly servers at PJ Piper Pancake House address diners welcomingly and usually by name. Surrounded by so many regulars I practically felt like a tourist! Though it didn’t take long to feel at home and realize this place is an important part of the Cedarburg community.
The menu (breakfast and lunch) is full of variety without being overwhelming. There were many highlights during my visit. One being the Florentine crêpes, filled with fresh spinach, chopped hard-boiled egg and bacon served with Hollandaise sauce ($8). The crêpe itself was flavorful and covered with buttery caramelization (from cooking); it was not impossibly thin, but rather structured enough to securely hold its contents without sacrificing delicate texture. A little of the accompanying Hollandaise went a long way; it carries just enough lemon for flavor balance but should be ordered on the side to avoid smothering the careful flavor and texture of the crêpe. It was a delightful, savory rendition of traditionally sweet preparations.
The day’s special was a country scrambler ($7), a remixed version of the classic biscuits and gravy. Scrambled eggs covered in a blanket of sausage gravy and onions were served with hash browns and a buttermilk biscuit. It was tasty and heavy—a winter comfort dish that may result in a nap for dessert.
The Polish scrambler ($7.75) was an unexpected treat, especially if you’re the type (like me) who scans a breakfast menu, bypassing the classics for something a bit more interesting or unique. Chopped kielbasa, sauerkraut and sautéed onions are scrambled with three eggs and paired with crisp potato pancakes, applesauce and sour cream. It felt close to Grandma’s.
As one would expect from a restaurant with pancake house in the name, a pancake fan may need extra time deciding between creations such as triple chocolate chip (dark, milk and white chocolate chips, $6.75), the Graceland (filled with peanut butter chips and fresh banana slices, $6.75), or dulce de leche (topped with caramel sauce and cinnamon crumble, $6.75). Diners who gravitate toward sweeter preparations also will choose from a selection of waffle, crêpe and French toast preparations.
On the savory side, PJ Piper offers a variety of benedicts, skillets, omelets and breakfast sandwiches, as well as healthier options, including the slim wrap ($7.25) with egg whites, turkey sausage, spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms and mozzarella cheese wrapped in a whole-grain tortilla. The final product is delicious but juicy (as a result of freshly cooked vegetables), which turned out to be a bit messy. Be ready to ditch the hand-held presentation for a nearby knife and fork.
Upon arrival, PJ Piper looks quaint to say the least. Furnished with three window-front booths on each side of the entry and a diner-style bar with six stools for counter service, the hostess stand hardly seemed necessary. But do not judge the size of this book by its cover; the main dining room begins a few steps away in back of the restaurant and is expansive. Walking to the restrooms was like weaving through different rooms of someone’s home, assuming that home smelled like coffee, bacon and maple syrup. If only.
PJ Piper Pancake House Restaurant
W61 N514 Washington Ave., Cedarburg
262-421-8040
$-$$
Handicapped access: No
