Photo by Nick Smith
Approach the entrance of Remington’s River Inn and you’ll notice two things: The first is a logo of a Labrador Retriever etched into the glass of the front window. And the second is a plaque on the building’s front façade from the Historic Preservation Commission. One can draw any number of conclusions, given these observations; mine, as I entered for the first time, was that this place could be friendly and special.
I walked through the door and instinctively channeled my inner Dorothy because my first thought was, “We’re not in Thiensville anymore.” Immediately, I felt transported to a cozy log cabin in the Northwoods, starting with floor-to-ceiling wood logs as far as the eye could see. A stone archway, separates the bar area from the main dining room—a long narrow room (bowling lanes during one of the building’s previous lives). The stone is an eye-catching and attractive juxtaposition to all the timber while adding to the interior’s homey and inviting atmosphere.
My visit begins at the sprawling wood bar, an impressive feat of craftsmanship customized with paw prints stamped into the wood. Yes, dog paws. Ah, right...that handsome black Labrador from the window. That is Remington, the establishment’s namesake and beloved family dog of owners Bob and Amy Ollman. Remington (who passed away last year, according to the bartender’s recollection) was not just loved, but possibly worshiped.
However, you don’t have to be a dog fan to like Remington’s fresh, made-to-order comfort food served in a friendly environment. The menu can be described as American classics: from Buffalo wings ($10) to Cobb salad ($13) and pan-fried walleye ($19) to bone-in rib-eye ($29). The chili ($6) is meaty and chunky, studded with plenty of tomato, pinto and kidney beans and further customized with onion, sour cream and shredded cheese. The French onion soup ($5) broth is fairly rich and well seasoned, not too salty (as some can be). Spinach artichoke dip ($10)—although quite light on the spinach—was creamy, flavorful, undeniably homemade and accompanied with tri-colored chips seasoned with a chili powder blend. The patty melt ($10) was cooked properly to order, loaded with caramelized onions, grilled perfectly on thick-cut marble rye and bound together by melted Swiss. And the meatloaf ($12) is tender, tasty and topped with a tomato-bacon jam that will make you forget all about that nostalgic ketchup topping Mom used back in the day.
Remington’s menu also features neighborhood favorites including burgers, specialty salads, pizza and a Friday fish fry. Wash it all down with a rotating selection of eight draft beers, more than two dozen bottled beers and a dozen or so wine varieties. And when the weather cooperates, enjoy it all alfresco on the back patio overlooking the Milwaukee River.
Remington’s River Inn
130 S. Main St., Thiensville
262-238-2697
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Handicapped access: Yes
