For anyone who cares about their health or the environment, figuring out what fish and seafood to eat is becoming increasingly more difficult.
There are fisheries that have responsible fishing practices, but the fish contain high contaminant levels. Then there are situations where the fish have low contaminant levels yet they are caught irresponsibly, causing harm to the species, waters and other marine life. Some are farm-raised, causing damage to the surrounding ecosystem, while various wild-caught species are near extinction from being over-fished. This is an industry with many Catch-22's, which is why seafood lovers are in such a quandary.
Let's first address this from a human health perspective. One reason why fish and seafood are so popular is their proven health benefits. However, contaminants such as mercury and PCBs negate this and pose serious health risks. Chemicals accumulate as they are passed up through the food chain meaning that top predators, such as walleye, can have levels a million times higher than that found in the water.
The good news is that PCB is stored in the fat of the fish so by skinning and trimming off the fat, the presence of the chemical can be significantly reduced (but not eliminated). To further reduce its toxicity, grilling, boiling or baking the fish on a rack allows the fat to drip out.
But unlike PCB, mercury accumulates throughout the fish. Therefore trimming and specific cooking techniques will not reduce toxicity. The only solution is to avoid those that are known to have high levels of mercury.
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Another perspective for consideration is supply and demand. Sophisticated fishing gear developed over the years to meet the ever-increasing demand has led to more fish being caught than the oceans and lakes can provide. Atlantic cod, grouper and snapper are just three examples that are severely depleted and should be avoided until they have time to come back.
Demand and ensuing shortages has also contributed toward the burgeoning business of aquaculture/underwater agriculture where fish and shellfish are being cultivated in controlled marine or freshwater environments. Intended to solve ecological and economic problems, instead fish farming has often created ecological and economic problems. The loss of natural habitat, pollution of waters from fish waste, antibiotics and chemicals, spread of disease, and the introduction of foreign species that harm native fish are just a few outcomes from these operations.
Having said that, there are many sustainable aquaculture systems that do not cause any harm such as Milwaukee's urban fish farmers at Sweet Water Organics. They have a re-circulating aquaculture system that simulates a wetland. The waste from tilapia and perch acts as natural fertilizer for plant growth and the plants act as a water filter. No drugs, mercury or disturbed ecosystems.
With all of these contradictions (and this just scratches the surface), it's no wonder why we're all so confused. But don't worry. There are pocket guides that can be printed out (listed below) as well as the following general guidelines that will help while trying to make a decision at the fish counter or restaurant:
- Eat lower on the foodchain to mitigate ingestion of chemicals (such as oysters, mackerel, sardines and mussels)
- Buy American, which in general has stricter standards and regulations than international markets
- Buy wild unless you know the fish were farm-raised without any harm done to the environment
- Buy local which eliminates the need for energy-intensive transportation and cooling
- Buy from trusted retailers who do the research for you
- Look for the Marine Stewardship Council blue sticker
- Buy fish caught by hook and line or trolling, not long line, where it's possible for many other species to be harmed in the process
Resources:
Advice on America's favorite five:shrimp, tuna, salmon, pollock and tilapia
Fish consumption advisories by location
Fish farming pros and cons