Owner JerryStenstrup, who also runs Steny’s just across the street, extensively renovatedthe building. The fieldstone exterior matches the indoor fireplace. Theinterior remains a tad plain, though a large mural of Irish scenery adorns onewall. An outdoor terrace is ready for summertime customers.
The Dubliner billsitself as a “gastro pub,” which implies a heavy focus on the foodand, indeed,most of the early customers are clearly here to dine. The menu is not far fromthat of a true Irish pub. Yes, chicken curry qualifies, though corned beef isscarcely found on menus in the Emerald Isle. This menu has everything fromIrish stew to salads, pub (small) plates, sandwiches and entrees. In generalthe fare is homey, not gastro-pretentious.
All right, theDubliner crab cakes ($12) do have touches of gastro. Instead of breading, lumpblue crab meat is combined with a mousse of shrimp and scallop. The resulting cakesare feathery in texture and all of the combined flavors shine. The cakes, whichare just fine without the tomato coulis, arrive with some mashed potatoes andwilted spinach. Another pub plate offers Gallaway Baymussels ($9). Presumably this alludes to GalwayBay on Ireland’s west coast, though eitherway they are delicious. The dish arrives as a big bowl of blue mussels inassorted sizes, with leeks and red potatoes in a Guinness broth. The slightlytart broth is especially good with the potatoes. With a taste this good, thebroth merits more than the one small roll that comes with this serving.
The entrees staytrue to The Dubliner’s Irish theme, except for the corned beef ($14) that isserved in thick, lean slices. Other items include shepherd’s pie, lamb shank,salmon and filet mignon. Walleye pike ($18) includes three filets, lightlybreaded with a hint of horseradish, that are pan-friedcrisp and delicious, ifa bit pricey. A cream sauce with flecks of parsley tops the filets. The platealso includes mashed potatoes and a vegetable medley of leeks and carrots. Somewill prefer the sauce served on the side, as it competes with the crispness ofthe horseradish crust.
Curiously, Irishstew is not an entrée; however, a beef and lamb version in a Guinness brothwith the usual root veggies is offered as a starter course ($4.50-$5.50). Therealso is country leek and potato soup ($3.50-$4.50), a sound cream soup with afew herbs. Consider ordering a house salad ($3.50) with an entrée or pub plate.The leaf lettuce with tomato, onion and cucumber is very fresh, plus there is awedge of hard-boiled egg and tasty garlic croutons. The dressings are above thenorm, especially the house tomato vinaigrette. Weekends offer Irish breakfastsand a special lunch menu.
The Dubliner stillfeels very new. Pubs should have more of a timeworn feel, and this buildingwill age well with time. For now, this is still a nice setting. In addition,the service is friendly and the menu is thoughtfulnot to mention the decentinternational beer list. This should prove to be a good home for the rebirth ofthe Dubliner.
The Dubliner
124 W. National Ave.
(414) 763-0301
$$
Credit Cards: VS, MC
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access: Yes
