The place has a modest exterior, along with a fewoutdoor tables when the weather is warmer. You enter into the bar area; on busynights, this area is filled with patrons waiting for a table. The main diningroom features oak tables with an assortment of chairs, ranging from press-backto balloon-back. Despite its cement floors and concrete-block walls, La Merendahas warm tones that make for an inviting setting.
The wines consist of an international list with somebottles for less than $20 and only a small number for more than $40. A greatspecial can be found on Mondays, when all bottles are half-price. The equallythoughtful beer list has fair prices as well. Try the La Merenda NationalAvenue Ale, which is custom-made by Lakefront Brewery.
After deciding on a drink, turn your attention tothe menu for a little gustatory globe-trotting. Europe, Asia, South America andNorth America are all represented. Servingsare not large in size, but all items cost less than $10. Plan on ordering atleast two per person, or bring a group and sample as much of the menu as youcan.
You’ll find more than 25 items to choose from, notcounting daily specials. Expect quality across the board: Sandroni is as adeptat preparing a risotto as he is a Filipino pancit.
The lumpia Shanghai($4.50) makes for the perfect starter. This is a Filipino version of a Chinesespring roll. Lumpia can be quite large, but these are the size of a thin cigar.They are filled with finely minced pork, cabbage and ginger, and then perfectlyfried.
The menu has no soups, so opt for a salad instead.The Wisconsin roasted beet salad ($6.50) is anartistic presentation served on a triangular plate. Slices of roasted beets inhues of gold, red, and pink edge the center of mixed greens, young green beans,chopped fennel, a bit of onion, and crumbled honey goat cheese. Mustardvinaigrette dressing (with mustard used sparingly) tops this delightful, ifsmall, salad that is expertly prepared.
Seafood items include great lobster and crab arancini($7). “Arancini,” often found on Sicilian menus, means “little oranges.”Typically they are made of rice and a center of meat, and then fried. Here theseafood is mixed with mozzarella and basil, adding a refined touch. The twoarancini are served with a bold marinara sauce that is fine on its own butsmothers the flavor of the crab and lobster. Scallop ceviche ($9) hails from Peru. Tortillachips ring this smallish serving of minced sea scallops. The treatment seemsmore Tahitian than Peruvian. There is a citrus marinade, flecks of cilantro,hints of chili and bits of bell pepper that are Peruvian enough. But thepineapple and coconut milk make this fine, sweet ceviche stray from Peru and travelfar into the Pacific.
Yet the Asian influences make for some of the bestitems at La Merenda. The Indonesian sambal goreng udang ($8) is a chili pastethat comes in many varieties. Here the sambal is toned down with coconut milkflecked with chopped tomatoes. The four jumbo shrimp ring a mound of coconutmashed potatoes in another example of this kitchen’s imaginative style.
Coriander beef ($7.50) stems from southern China. Thereare no surprises in this dish, as the pieces of New York strip have been fried with spinachand fresh mango and a hoisin-black bean sauce. This is not typical Cantonesefare, but it should be.
Wisconsinreappears on the menu with rainbow trout from Rushing Waters ($9), the name ofthe purveyor. A few pieces of trout have the skin on and are served overbuttery fingerling potatoes with spinach, shallots and garlic. A dusting ofdried herbs seems a bit aggressive for trout, but this kitchen never shies awayfrom flavorone of its strong points.
The service is excellent at slower times, though itcan be strained when the place is busy. If it’s crowded, be patient and do notexpect everything to arrive at once. Weekend evenings call for reservations. Ifind that the best time to visit is for a weekday lunch. The entire menu isserved and the place is never crowdedeven though the restaurant is just ashort drive from downtown Milwaukee.
La Merenda
125 E. National Ave.
(414) 389-0125
$$-$$$
Credit Cards: All Major
Smoke-free
Handicap Access: Yes
