La Canoa is full of atmosphere and seafood. Even the vestibule has a display of oysters in theshell along with an occasional red snapper, tilapia and crab resting over ice.The dining room is a riot of color with undersea murals and hand-carved woodenchairs decorated with all sorts of sea creatures painted in equally brilliant colors.A thatch umbrella sits in the center of the room and to the side is whatappears to be the hull of a boat. Walk inside and the space transforms into abar filled with cervezas and premium tequilas.
The menu is extensive at La Canoa. In addition tored snapper, you’ll find tilapia and catfish. There are also jumbo shrimp,oysters, octopus and even frog legs. Most items are offered simply grilled orwith sauces like mojo de ajo (garlic), one of chipotle peppers, Veracruzana(tomato with olives), and diabla, which is the spiciest. Seafood cocktails,served in jumbo sizes, and soups are numerous. The sole meat items are quailand Cornish hen. Lunch specials also include standard, meaty Mexican fare.
There are a few appetizers, including a decentguacamole ($5.50) prepared with a bit of onion, but ordering one is not reallynecessary. The servers arrive with a basket of chips and two salsas, plusmarinated jalapenos with carrot, onion and cauliflower. Then one seafoodempanada per person is served, as is a small dish of ceviche. Both of thesalsas qualify as spicy, one with the distinctive flavor of chipotle peppersand the other studded with bits of avocado to cool the fire. The ceviche is ofminced fish with cilantro, onion, tomato and the tartness of lime juice. It isperfectly goodand it is free! The empanada, with its spicy fish filling,serves as an example of how this kitchen enjoys using chile peppers.
Huilotas a la parrilla, or grilled quail, provedunavailable, which led to the ordering of caldo mares ($13.95). This is a soupof four different kinds of seafood served in an attractive pottery bowl. Jumboshrimp are abundant and clams come in the shell. Along with fish, a whole bluecrab arrives on top of it all. Thanks to hot sauce, the broth is spicy. Thebroth also features peas, minced carrots and potatoes. A side plate of choppedonion and cilantro with lime wedges accompanies the dish. This is a delicious,spicy soup, though the crab can be a bit messy to eat. A claw cracker isprovided.
For something spicier, try the pulpo a la diabla($13.95), pieces of octopus in a potent red chile sauce. The sauce is oily byMexican standards, reminding me of the most authentic Szechuanfood, but it is a good one. It fails to make the octopus tender, however. Thediabla sauce is also available with nearly all of the other seafood options.
The most impressive item has to be the Zihuatanejospecial ($16.95), which is served on a metal platter. Seven jumbo shrimp arestuffed with cheese into even larger jalapeno peppers that are then wrappedwith a strip of bacon before they are broiled. The peppers, no spicier thanpoblano, are quite mild for jalapenos. It’s a memorable entrée.
The main reason for visiting the nearby FiestaGaribaldi is to order the langostinos, which also make an appearance on themenu here ($24.95 for 12, $12.95 for six). They are saltwater crawfish, smallversions of spiny lobsters. The flavorful langostinos are halved and servedwith a mild red chile sauce that is not so spicy as to overpower.
Side items may include a simple salad, runny beanstopped with cheese, white rice with peas and carrots, and potato salad thatusually comes with the spicier items. In addition to tortillas, the kitchenalso has fresh-baked breadsticksthat are especially good with the soups and the langostinos.
Mexican seafood reigns supreme at La Canoa, the mostinteresting Mexican restaurant to open in some time. So settle in and enjoy aleisurely, excellent meal. n
La Canoa
1520 W. Lincoln Ave.
(414) 645-1140
$-$$
Credit Cards: All Major
Smoking: At Bar
Handicap Access: Yes
