In a region so well known for a love of bratwurst, it may be hard for a newcomer to carve out a place of recognition. Peruse the aisle of local grocery stores, and you’ll find whole sections of refrigerated meat cases dedicated to familiar brat makers like Usinger’s and Johnsonville and a wide variety of brat “ethnicities” like German, Italian and Polish.
Undaunted by the array of competition against them, Wendi and Matthew Devan launched a new company in 2013, SA Braai, specializing in South African-style boerewor—that’s “bratwurst” to you and me. Boerewors draw from Dutch roots, containing beef and pork with a palate-pleasing spice blend. The “braai” in the name comes from a South African tradition. “Most houses in South Africa have a braai,” explains Matthew. “It’s a small structure built of stone or brick, sometimes with a chimney—sort of like we would have a grill. They’ll say, ‘Come over to my house for a braai’ like we say come over and we’ll grill.”
Born in South Africa, Matthew perfected his trade working in his father’s butcher shop, where he learned a lot about meat. Wendi, a Wisconsin native, brought her husband here because they both recognized there may be more opportunities in the States. After a bit of convincing by Wendi, Matthew agreed to take a chance and sell his own South African brats at the Tosa Farmers Market. “Our first day we just were letting people taste the product and we sold out of our frozen sausages in the first hour and a half,” says Wendi, “We also cooked a crazy amount of sausages that day.”
Business kept growing from there, and it wasn’t too long before SA Braai was stocking their breakfast links and sausages at Metcalfe’s Market in Wauwatosa. This year they expanded the number of weekends they were at the farmers market and added some appearances at Hoyt Park’s beer garden, The Landing. Their popularity continues to expand as just this month SA Braai will be available in select Sendik’s Markets. Other SA Braai products, like a special spice blend, a salt and pepper mix, and a wonderful sweet, yet slightly spicy chutney will also be appearing in stores soon.
You may have sampled some of Matthew’s handiwork without even knowing it. As well as being the creative mastermind behind SA Braai, he’s currently the in-house butcher for La Merenda and Engine Company No. 3. “It’s been really great to be able to make some creative sausages, use all of my skills and work in collaboration with so many talented people,” says Matthew.” Perhaps these new experiences will lead to further expansion of the SA Braai brand in the future.
