Dim sum is one of my favorite Chinese delights. I enjoyed it in a restaurant in New York’s Chinatown where servers pushed stainless-steel carts that each carried one special item. No knowledge of the Chinese language was necessary; you simply pointed at whatever looked good. No local place currently uses these carts, but the Peony Restaurant (11120 W. Bluemound Road) has 54 dim sum items on its menu. Many of the lunchtime customers don’t seem to know that it exists, though, as you must request this menu separately. The small plates range from the accessible, like shrimp dumplings and roasted duck crepes, to the exotic, including duck feet and beef tripe. Do not expect items to arrive in any exact order. The roast pork in a puff pastry will take longer to prepare. The best way to enjoy dim sum is with a group. Try as many items as possible, and don’t forget a pot of tea.
Photo by Kate Engbring