Bumstead Provisions in Bay View (2671-2675 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.) is a place to dine, drink, grab a sandwich at the deli or peruse the many local offerings, the giant wall of beer, imported wines, meats, cheese and other fine staples.
The location was once home to a True Value hardware store and that history remains embedded in the décor of exposed brick walls, antique drawers and tables that were once the wooden shelving. Even the old safe remains as a conversation piece. The Edison lights above the bar give off a warm glow and the staff makes you feel welcome.
The mix of old and new is tied in with the eclectic menu and craft cocktails such as the duck fat-infused Old Fashioned, Southern Gentlemen or Bay View Bloodhound ($9-$12). Also offered are boilermakers, a decent selection of wine, lots of great craft brews and a dedicated tap line for Anodyne’s atomic cold brew coffee.
As diverse as the libations, the sandwich menu ($9-$15) includes many unique combinations. Among them, vegetarian options like the Grape, Taleggio & Gouda melt or the Southshore Farmers Market filled with vegetables, pesto and bleu cheese on focaccia bread. The lobster cheesesteak is a popular and outstanding choice with sliced rib eye and Velveeta “wiz” and topped with butter-poached lobster.
Appetizers, snacks and boards are also plentiful with choices that include a giant warm salty pretzel weighing in at 1.5 pounds and served with beer cheese sauce; shishito peppers; various tacos; meat and cheese boards; and their “rotating meatball,” Thai inspired on one visit and with an Indian flavor on another. For the more adventurous diner comes pork belly cinnamon buns with three crispy pieces of thinly sliced pork belly rolled in cinnamon sugar and seared in butter; or foie gras donuts served with berry preserves. The half pig head ($38) is available on weekends after 4 p.m. and smoked by Iron Grate BBQ.
There are four large plate entrées to choose from, although I found the plates from all categories were generous enough for sharing. The braised pork cheek mac ’n’ cheese ($13) was a throwback to childhood favorites; the pork cheeks braised in Dr. Pepper served with shell pasta in a Velveeta sauce with Frito crumbs on top for a crispy finish was pure comfort food. The Thai chicken and dumplings ($14), a lighter dish, featured a delicate tom yum broth full of flavor from the basil, chili and lime and a light and airy Sriracha dumpling. The Clockshadow cheese curd pierogis include mushroom gravy, hazelnuts, spicy kraut and a side salad. The triple duck hash ($17) was served in a skillet with duck bacon and sliced duck sausage on top of gold finger potatoes and topped with a duck egg.
Bumstead Provision takes brunch seriously. At their “Sunday Spectacular,” you can choose to dine a la carte or enjoy an all-you-can-eat meal (not buffet style) starting with hot mini donuts and fresh berries.
