A Family Affair at Calderone Club - Fox Point

by

Let’s Eat!

Growing up in Fox Point in the ‘90s, we had limited choices of restaurants to go to without leaving the village lines. The staples were Port China, North Shore Bistro, Benji’s and Calderone Club. Only the two latter are still in business today. Everyone knows the famous Calderone Club Downtown, but the Fox Point location feels like a little North Shore secret.

Now, I don’t know all the details of the family history of who has ownership where, but the family crossover definitely still exists. For example, Mama’s Meatballs are a family recipe still on the menu after all these years, and a tribute to the since-passed matriarch of the family. The menus are very similar, but the North Shore has a bit of a slower vibe.

On any given night you’ll catch Frank behind the bar, saying hello to customers. His cousin is usually posted up at the bar managing the phones and staff. They are the dynamic and charismatic duo of your Italian restaurant dreams. Sometimes I picture scenes from my favorite show “The Sopranos” and feel lucky to have my own little version of Vesuvio’s with Artie Bucco in the kitchen. 

My family has always been big fans of Calderone Club, regardless of location. In fact, my parents spent some of their formative years as patrons at the original downtown spot which is how they got tot to know Frank. By the way, that’s how I got to know him, too. Considering I look a lot like both of my parents, he always remembers who I am and asks how the family is doing. Frank really cares about his restaurant and all the people in it. 

Cracker-Thin Pizza Crust

Now, to the food! This menu is a tough one as you truly can’t go wrong. Famous for their “cracker-thin style pizza” and a list of homestyle Italian dishes, it’s easy to be someone who orders the same thing every time but it’s smart to work your way around the menu. Tonight, I was joined by two of my parent’s friends who have recently relocated from New York to Milwaukee during the pandemic. And of course, the topic of “where’s the best food in Milwaukee?” came up. 

I went through my list of favorite spots and was happily sitting in one myself, so I was curious what their review would be. It sounded like they’d done takeout before, but never enjoyed the cozy ambiance and the unbeatable fresh-out-of-the-oven taste of dining in. We ordered some Mama’s Meatballs, a large Caesar salad, and a large pizza with sausage, mushrooms, and onions (a typical Milwaukee order of toppings). This is the ultimate go-to order in my personal opinion.

Being a lifetime regular, I’ve explored the menu quite a bit and can recommend the chicken marsala, veal parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, all of the salads, and any of the pizzas. Truly this menu is all-around delicious, and you can’t go wrong. 

If you’re lucky enough to live close to Calderone Club - Fox Point, I suggest becoming a regular yourself. It’s perfectly close to after-school, church, synagogue, soccer matches, town halls, swim meets and even a day at the park no matter which direction you’re going.