Photo Credit: Kevin J Miyazaki
Sitting on the corner of First and Washington in Walker’s Point and basking under the glow of the “Polish Moon,” c.1880 gets it’s name from the age of the building it is housed in. However, the menu is innovative and future forward enough to rival any modern big-city restaurant.
C.1880’s comfortable atmosphere draws you in the moment you arrive and peek in the copper-framed windows. The warm glow of the swags of Edison light bulbs overhead and great artwork are a perfect backdrop for the gorgeous presentation of every dish. Upon entering the main dining room, there is a long wood bar with a few seats to watch the “snap, crackle and pop” that happens with some of their signature drinks; or you could choose to go to the back of the restaurant and sit in a cozy area by the fireplace—all while listening to the great jazz music that plays at the right level for enjoyment.
The menu is written with a trendy approach including no fancy words or adjectives—just a simple list of ingredients with the star of the dish in bold print, although the food is far from simple. Chef Thomas Hauck’s food is eloquent and showcases each of its ingredients put together in a harmonious dish both beautiful and imaginative.
I had the foie gras on two separate occasions, once with currants and once with cranberry and pistachio ($19). Both were smooth, rich and stunningly presented. The highly recommended chestnut veloute ($10) was poured tableside on a perfectly placed timbale of duck confit and cremini mushroom duxelle. The waft of bacon filled the air as the creamy veloute hit the warm bowl. It was pure decadence and the bowl of warm comfort and sophisticated flavors was a great way to start the dining experience.
The jumbo lump crab ($15) was paired with avocado, serrano chili and kumquat, which brightened the flavors of the dish. The 48-hour braised shortrib ($26) had a wonderful beefy flavor, but was a little dry. However, the ras el hanout (a Moroccan spice blend) with salsify and carrots were a delicious combination that went well with the richness of this dish. The favorite of the evening was the seasonally available coffee- and pasilla-rubbed venison ($35), which was perfectly done and served with pickled red cabbage. It was cooked to the chef-recommended medium-rare and was one of those dishes you talk about days later.
The dessert menu has a little something for everyone, including a trio of sorbets and a quartet of ice cream. Their signature dessert, the whatchamacallit ($10) should be called the wowzamacallit! It draws on all the taste sensations of creamy, crunchy, sweet and salty in every bite and was a big enough portion for all to enjoy.
It would be remiss not to mention that c.1880 offers a tasting menu with or without wine pairing suggestions, a wonderful vegetarian tasting menu and notable wine list. One could certainly go on with many accolades for Chef Hauck and c.1880. The outstanding food and presentations, the comfort and service of this restaurant, are things that stand out in any century.
c.1880
1100 S. First St.
414-431-9271
$$-$$$
Handicap accessible: No
