Peruvian food is a reflection of that country’s diverse culture, varied ecological system and rich history from the Incas through independence from Spain. It is a cuisine that deserves care and celebration, and thankfully for Milwaukee area diners, West Allis’ Chef Paz has offered traditional, affordable Peruvian cuisine since opening in 2012. And while the restaurant may be small and the décor simple, it is easy to choose substance over style, especially when the substance is enticingly presented on a plate.
For individuals with limited exposure to Peruvian cuisine, ordering an appetizer is a simple way to test the culinary waters. Consider the ceviche ($9). Served with canchita (oversized corn), red onion spirals and a thick slice of sweet potato, the marinated fish produces a more tart and concentrated flavor than Mexican and Spanish ceviches. Other starter options include fried yucca and Andean cream sauce ($4); choritos a la chalaca (beautiful Peruvian-style mussels topped with salsa fresca; $13); and traditional cheese, chicken and beef empanadas ($2).
Sometimes the only way to improve upon an already successful entrée is to add a fried egg. Such is the case with is Tacu Tacu ($14), a dish comprised of a thick rice and canary bean pancake topped with a fried egg and served with succulent tenderloin mixed with tomatoes and onions. Just one of Chef Paz’s outstanding entrées, other notable dishes include seco de res ($11), a cilantro-laden beef stew prepared with “inka chili” and Chicha de Jora (a Peruvian beer made with germinated maize), jalea ($16), a combination of fried shrimp, mussels, fish and calamari, and classic arroz con pollo ($9). Somewhat mild in comparison with the remainder of the menu, the pollo of the arroz con pollo is pounded flat and served with a pretty pyramid of yellow rice containing peas, onion and carrots.
Chef Paz’s ebullient Peruvian pride extends beyond its colorful entrées and appealing appetizers to provide patrons with a satisfying dining experience from the first sip to the last bite. Beverages include Cusqueña Premium Peruvian Beer ($5), sangria ($6) and a small selection of wines priced at $6 per glass. There is also Inca Kola ($2), a popular soft drink that packs a uniquely sweet punch, and Chicha Morada ($2), a celebrated Peruvian beverage and supposed hangover cure made with some combination of purple maize, sugar, pineapple and cinnamon.
Rather than succumbing to the familiar restaurant pattern of allowing dessert to become a sweet afterthought among diners, Chef Paz’s dessert selection is prominently displayed on the menu. Ranging from the familiar to the more exotic, the dessert options include lemon pie ($3), alfajores ($4), guanábana mousse ($4) and lucuma mousse ($4). Alfajores are delicious, traditional South American cookies made with cornstarch and filled with dulce de leche, while the lucuma and guanábana mousses are made with the celebrated guanábana fruit and the subtlety flavored subtropical lucuma fruit. For a small group, Chef Paz’s bouquet ($8), a combination of lemon pie, guanábana mousse and lucuma mousse, is a wonderful way to conclude the meal and a delicious remainder of the great benefit of exploring different cuisines.
Chef Paz
9039 W. National Ave., West Allis
414-327-1600
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Handicap access: Yes
