Photo by Rachel Buth
Mexican food is one of the most popular ethnic cuisines in America, but that wasn’t always the case. When La Fuente opened in 1991 at 625 S. Fifth St., it was one of the first Mexican restaurants to open around Fifth and National, an area now a hotbed for south-of-the-border spots. La Fuente’s exotic cuisine struck a chord with Milwaukee area residents looking for some spice, and it became a destination dining spot for suburbanites. After a couple of expansions in hopes of producing shorter wait times, owner Jose Zarate finally decided to bring the same Mexican food to the suburbs. He opened a location on Bluemound Road in Wauwatosa in 2010 and a location in Waukesha in 2012. Now his customers don’t have to come all the way to Walker’s Point in order to get their enchilada fix.
The spacious patio with outdoor bar at the original location is the best place to enjoy the food, especially when the restaurant’s namesake fountain is bubbling away. It’s a well-known summer hotspot, and many people like to relax outside with the popular shrimp soup ($15.75). Just because it’s soup doesn’t mean it can only be enjoyed in winter. In fact, it’s very refreshing and tailor-made for summer, with large shrimp, avocado, onions, tomatoes and cilantro in a light tomato broth.
For something more substantial, the ever-present combination plates allow you to try a variety of preparations and meats, choosing either two ($9.75) or three ($11.25) items from a list of enchiladas, tacos, tostadas and flautas, among others. I felt the chunky chunky beef had more flavor than the shredded chicken, making it the standout filling choice. Try it in the enchilada dinner ($13.55) and choose between tomatillo, chipotle, mole Oaxaca or guajillo chili sauce to top them. Crumbly queso fresco in place of heavy melted cheese is a welcome authentic touch.
For something a little more Mex and less Tex, look to the house specialties section of the menu. Chile Relleno ($10.95) is generously served with two peppers to an order. Mild poblanos are stuffed with chihuahua cheese, dipped in an egg-based batter, fried and topped with salsa ranchera. Chicken Mole Oaxaca ($14.75) tops chicken breast in the dark, rich and complex mole from the Oaxaca region, made with roasted almonds, guajillo chiles and dark chocolate.
Shrimp a la Diabla ($16.75) is another good choice. A dozen or so plump shrimp are topped in copious amounts of brick-red salsa. The fact that you can specify whether you want the dish mild, medium or hot is a little confounding, considering it is named after the devil because of its heat, but at least the hot did have a good bit of spice. Bell peppers, onions and huge potato wedges are also swimming in the sauce. Coupled with the white rice and black beans served on the side, this is a massive dish.
With three locations, La Fuente is clearly a local favorite, especially when it comes to enjoying frozen margaritas and refreshing shrimp soup on a sunny patio. They were instrumental in popularizing Mexican food in Milwaukee, and I’m sure they’ll be around for a while.
La Fuenete
Multiple locations
$$
Handicap access: Yes
