The old dinner-and-a-movie date is experiencing a revival in Bay View. The Avalon Atmospheric Theater, built in 1929, underwent a full renovation a few years ago, restoring it to its full atmospheric, Mediterranean-influenced glory. In its heyday, it was a neighborhood beacon and hangout spot for adults and teens alike—my grandpa was probably not the only one sneaking in the back door to meet girls in the 1930s. Now, the theater shows first-run and classic movies daily under a ceiling of shooting stars.
For the dinner part of the date equation there’s Mistral, the theater’s recently opened attached restaurant. The Mediterranean cuisine by executive chef Joe Schreiter matches the theater’s décor and atmosphere beautifully, with influences from Tunisia, Spain and Morocco. Mistral and The Avalon are a matched pair, complementing each other so well it’s hard to imagine the restaurant hasn’t been there all along.
There’s an entrance to Mistral off the sidewalk, but you can also enter from the theater’s lobby vestibule. The space is small and ridiculously cozy, especially during winter nights. A bar with place settings for dining takes up one wall, and opposite is a row of banquette tables. Otherwise, there’s only a few other tables in the whole place, including one booth that is tucked away in its own little alcove, complete with theater curtain for privacy. That’s the table to score for Valentine’s Day.
While the menu is small, the flavors are unique and surprising. A charred octopus appetizer ($13) is served in a wide, shallow bowl. The large portion of tender, lightly crisped tentacles is served with a swipe of creamy romesco sauce, little fondant potato rounds, Spanish chorizo in the same shape, whole mustard seed vinaigrette, and a bit of greens and herbs. The mild octopus and light bitterness from the charring goes well with the tangy romesco and chorizo.
A scallop appetizer ($14) is served with two expertly seared sea scallops topped with an herb-heavy preserved lemon gremolata. Accompanying it is a warm salad of blood orange, shaved fennel and fingerling potatoes, and arugula. The Moroccan flavors continue to a chicken leg confit app ($11) with tomato chutney, a similar warm salad with fennel and fingerlings, and a rich chicken jus.
The six entrées available are well conceived and vary in protein and cooking method. I wasn’t completely sure what to expect when I ordered the Tunisian brik with ahi tuna ($23) but it turned out to be a fantastic choice. A brik is a stuffed pastry with a thin dough, and the version at Mistral is like a lacy, delicate crepe folded around a filling of finely diced sweet potato hash. The ahi is seared briefly and served rare on top of the brik, along with a smear of sweet potato purée and harissa vinaigrette on the plate. I would never have guessed that sweet potato and ahi would go well together, but the vinaigrette and the surprise runny egg yolk in the middle of the brik—a recent addition to the dish for some much-needed richness—make it all work.
This is one of the few places in Milwaukee you can get rabbit. In this case, it’s braised cacciatore style ($19) with tomatoes and served with roasted mixed mushrooms and brown butter polenta. A pork crepinette ($17) is a free-formed pork sausage, which is served here on a bed of braised kale and cannellini beans, surrounded by pork consommé. Potato gnocchi ($15) is the lone vegetarian entrée, served with spicy pumpkin ragout, spaghetti squash, balsamic and walnuts.
If you’re hesitant to try something completely new, the safe bet on the menu is steak and frites ($21). The flat iron steak was grilled to the requested medium and well seasoned, then sliced and topped with a light demi-glace and a bit of chermoula, a North African condiment similar to chimichurri. And while the Middle Eastern za’atar spices were mostly absent on the frites, it didn’t matter because the airy, crisp potatoes were fantastic as they were.
For dessert, there is only one option, a trio of small bites ($6). But the predominant flavors of the restaurant continue in each item, instead of just slapping something like a safe chocolate cake on the menu. Mascarpone-stuffed dried apricots with pistachios are bathed in a sweet honey syrup and are the standout of the bunch. The other two include a nut-filled, saffron custard-topped cookie and a spiced orange chocolate truffle. The chef delivered our dessert and explained that he doubled up the apricots and truffles, since there were two of us dining and we planned to share. A nice, personal touch that’s always appreciated.
A full bar is available, including a selection of signature cocktails that are heavy on the Italian bitter liqueurs—and alcohol. I expected the Strega Verde ($10) to be green by the name, but it was maroon. No matter, because the strong concoction of the herbal Strega, rye, vermouth and bitters was delicious. A well-curated selection of seven draught beers includes Like Minds a Nouveau, a barrel-aged sour, and Good City Brewing’s pilsner.
Dinner at Mistral before a movie at The Avalon is an upscale, unique experience. But don’t let the fact that you’re not going to a movie stop you from coming. The candle-lit atmosphere, well-executed menu, personable chef and little hospitable touches—from the gorgeous cut glass water glasses to the homemade jelly candy parting treat—make Mistral one of the new must-stops in Milwaukee.
