Photo via Facebook / Lucky Ginger
Located in the heart of the Third Ward, in a building seemingly as old as the city itself, Lucky Ginger (221 N. Water St.) resides side by side other Cream City brick originals. Lucky Ginger is long and narrow, stretching back from Water Street to the riverfront.
Sitting at golden hour, facing the river in the far back booth was something special. The building, the windows, the bricks—all so old and original. Like the feeling you get in Buck Bradley’s: antiquity enveloping you in these historic relics of buildings. The menu fuses Thai and Vietnamese, with some Korean influences too. Hip and young with specialized flavors and executions.
Right out of the gate I order the pork dumplings off the appetizer menu. They warn they take 25 minutes to cook, communicating a dedication to their practice they are not willing to compromise. I knew I needed an order of these. The dough was delicious and melted in my mouth, and the meat was so juicy and flavorful it had liquid pouring out like a Taiwanese soup dumpling. The vegetable meat filling was cooked perfectly, the source of the juice drainage. The soy dip added an essential tang.
I drank a Thai iced coffee for my beverage, indulging in my sweet treat before dinner. I am a salt over sweet kind of gal, so washing my sweet down with my salty meal works. But the coffee was a bit burnt, or old, so this one did not go down as smooth as I like. It’s a simple beverage, but a miss when not given enough attention. I drank it but did not guzzle it. Maybe for the better?
The edamame pods were cooked well with cubes of salt crystals, like ones on a margarita rim. I was picking them up a la carte with my fingers, savoring the savory. The green was the fresh we needed amongst the meat heavy, salty dishes to follow.
Oh So Good
The pork belly hoisin skewers were soft, with moist fat making up for the slightly dry meat. On their menu, they describe how these go through a three-step heating process—going from slow cooked to deep fried to finishing off on the grill—a potential for getting overdone. The thick hoisin sauce on top was another good addition for moisture. It brings tang and compliments the salty fattiness. I swear I remember having three skewers (rather than the two they say on their menu), because I definitely remember indulging in more than I needed, but they were oh so good ... Maybe we were just lucky that night.
The highlight of the meal, hands down, was the Korean Short ribs off their entree menu. There are three to four racks to an order—which ended up being on the small side for sharing because of how delicious these were—I did not want to share. Super melt in your mouth, glazy, tangy, fatty. With some dry heat to close it out. The texture was chewy and soft from the fat and perfect grilling time. It melted like butter in my mouth. So delightful. It came with a heap of rice, a fried egg and kimchi. Fresh and crisp to balance the heat from their house Korean marinade glazing the meat. The crust was gooey, and the meat was soft. I was floored with every bite.
I even ordered the pho, for good measure, and out of habit. But this was left in the shadows of everything else we ordered. It was good, but without the hoisin and sriracha dousing, it was a bit flat. Yes, isn’t it the point to doctor up your bowl of pho just the way you like? But I am a purist when it comes to bone broth, looking to taste the laborious process in its original form, and this one was not as rich as I had hoped on its own. But with my personal touch, it flared right up.
I will forewarn, I did get some pretty intense heartburn post meal. When looking back on what we ordered—salt crystals, hoisin, soy sauce, pork belly, coffee—yeah, I was probably asking for it. So this is more of a forewarning for those who are prone to heartburn. Or prepare by eating dairy. My dad was completely fine, however. But it was something hard to ignore closing out the night.
The pork dumplings and the short ribs were the definite highlights. Well prepared, flavors and juices elicited through nicely timed execution and a good array of textures—crunchy, juicy, crisp, soft, melty. A tasty fusion in a building that is just as much of a treat being in as the saltiness of the meal.
Lucky Ginger @LuckyGingerMke on Facebook 221 N. Water St. Monday - Saturday 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday 4-9 p.m. 414-269-8699
