Piazza on North
Strong coffee, gourmet sandwiches
by Sarah Biondich
November 15, 2007
Slow and steady, the East Side’s North Avenue is building up a respectable collection of businesses. Popular mainstays like Von Trier, BBC, Beans & Barley, Pizza Man and Judge’s are witness to new growth in the form of Whole Foods, Hotch-A-Do and, most recently, La Piazza.
Resurrected from Node Coffee Shop’s former digs at the corner of North and Cambridge avenues, La Piazza is named after the public squares in cities and townsmost notably in Italywhere people simply gather. Whether socializing, dining or relaxing alone with a rich espresso, visitors at La Piazza are able to enjoy a comfortable place where neighbors can meet day or night, much like the caf%uFFFDof Europe.
In addition to inviting the sunlight in, La Piazza’s picture windows are perfect for watching the foot traffic pass byan activity that should become even more colorful when UW-Milwaukee’s River View Residence Hall opens in January. The caf%uFFFDsquo;s cappuccino-and-cream palette is enriched with original artwork, delicate glass chandeliers and copper-topped caf%uFFFDables adorned with fresh flowers. The front deli case is stocked with rounds, wedges and blocks of Gruyere, smoked Gouda, brie, dill havarti, Romano and mozzarella cheeses, as well as pasta salads, olives and jars of capers. It’s here that you order one of La Piazza’s generous gourmet sandwiches or one of the three soups of the day.
Because the main ingredient of the Tres Formaggio sandwich is cheese, if the contents are less than stellar, the whole sandwich bombs. Fortunately, La Piazza employs fresh, high-quality Gouda, dill havarti and Gruyere cheeses that make this concoction score big. The complex and full-bodied cheeses are accented with tomatoes, greens and piquant olives layered within an enormous loaf of fresh ciabatta bread spread with horseradish sauce. In comparison, the coleslaw and soggy selection of mixed fruit that accompany the sandwiches are a bit disappointing. With prices ranging from $5 to $8, these fine sandwiches don’t need any tag-alongs to make them worthwhile.
Chili con carne, cream of mushroom and cream of asparagus are some of the homemade soups La Piazza offers. Although the plastic bowls in which the soups are served seem a tad out of alignment with the general aesthetic of the caf%uFFFDthe soups are a nice addition to a sandwich, or, with a hunk of artisan bread, make for a small meal all by themselves.
After opening in late summer, La Piazza is still adjusting to the needs of a dynamic neighborhood. That being said, the menu lists a number of dishes that are not currently being served. Even without these items, La Piazza offers a little something to please every palate. If you don’t see anything that tickles your fancy, the dedicated-to-please staff is more than willing to help you create something of your own. La Piazza is also expanding the kitchen in hopes of supporting a full menu dedicated to Mediterranean fare.
Settled in the back of the restaurant, La Piazza’s bar room is a hidden gem. Warm lighting and dark wood give this intimate space a nice ambiance. A variety of beer and liquor, plenty of seats and a mounted flat-screen television make this an ideal spot to watch the Packers on a cold Sunday afternoon. La Piazza has embraced the multidimensional aspect of caf%uFFFDulture found in Europe and given it a stateside twist. So whether you want to kick back some strong ale with your mates, share an intimate meal or read a book over a cup of tea, La Piazza offers an appropriate setting.
1504 E. North Ave., Milwaukee; (414) 921-0400; www.la-piazza.org. The restaurant is open Tuesday – Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The bar is open Tuesday – Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Open Sunday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. only if the Packers are playing.
