© International Art & Artists
Do clothes make the woman?
Sometimes, yes. “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair” is an exhibition of haute couture fashion that paraded down runways, promoted by publisher Eunice Walker Johnson. She and her husband John H. Johnson founded
Ebony and Jet magazines, and brought the thrill of exceptional clothing to communities across America, reaching audiences of all colors and demographics.
One of the goals of the annual runway extravaganza was to inspire. From its beginning in 1958, African American models strutted on stages wearing clothing that even today only the most elite can afford. Johnson’s endeavor encouraged pride in women and men who, because of the color of their skin, faced segregation and denial.
An astounding amount of clothing was amassed as Johnson bought the outfits for the show. The declining economy brought an end to the Fashion Fair, but the clothing remained as a massive collection. It has been curated and reimagined in this exhibition on view at the Milwaukee Art Museum.
Some of the great names of couture are represented, including Givenchy, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. As is the nature of high fashion, there are pieces that are immediately, easily wearable by anyone. Other pieces delve into daring territory with plunging necklines in front or back, sheer revealing fabric not really meant to conceal and dramatic flourishes of beading, sequins, feathers and fur. While most ensembles are designed for women, there are clothes for men, even some of the most opulent numbers like a voluminous purple fox fur coat.
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The exhibition has the sensation of suspended action. The fringe, drapery and luxurious fabric are built for movement, and videos offer a glimpse of what the Fashion Fair was really like. It did not involve emaciated, pouting adolescents stomping down a catwalk, but instead a vivacious, choreographed performance. Interviews with models and designers offer additional reminiscences of how special an event this was. Though the exhibition is static, its drama of color and the ambitions of Johnson animate the memory. Inspiring design, with a dash of glamour, can make a difference.
“Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair” continues through May 3 at the Milwaukee Art Museum.
